Tuesday April, 18th 2017.
Having risen very early to catch a 6.30am flight to Perth I then taxied to Armadale to catch the Australind train to Bunbury. Another bus to Capel where I was met by Michael and taken to their home. It was good to chat with Michael and Moyra, we had dinner, then off to bed early. A lovely, warm bed made for a great sleep and it wasn’t long before 7am was around.
A good breaky with Michael and Moyra and then down to the IGA for a few fresh goodies then on the road to Donnelly River Village. It took about 90 minutes to get there and I Registered my trip in the Walking Log before heading off to the track.
Said a fond farewell to Michael and Moyra, it was so kind of them to drive me over. Then this years adventure was off. Today’s walk was just over sixteen kilometres which is a fair stretch and good preparation for the longer ones to come.
It did not take long to encounter the joys and difficulties of walking.
It took a while to re-enter the domain of the big Karri trees but there they were again in all their bulk, height and splendor. On occasion they formed an archway and reflected the beautiful autumn light from their leaves.
The map broke the walk up into manageable sections with clear landmarks to announce your arrival. The terrain was relatively flat – started at 220 metres high and rose to 300 metres on occasion. Little elevations apart from when the rise was immediate and I paced myself in 10 step chunks, sometimes stopping for a breather sometimes not. Remember the Turtle was still there weighing in at 17 kilograms at the Airport and with additions to follow when I got to W.A.
The pathways varied from good graded roads, to leafy, crunchy tracks. Bridges crossed rivers and it was a pleasant walk in the gentle warmth of autumn.
I had hoped for a five-hour day, it was six. With stops for rests and lunch and a breather the day was a little longer than I anticipated.
The path followed some fire tracks, a few graded roads, but then swung off into the bush to remind you of the true purpose of the Bib.
No snakes and only a few birds in sight. The little wrens follow the track as the walkers bring the grubs to the surface and the wrens are in for a feed. Other birds were presents with sound but not sight chattering away not far from the track.
I followed the Manjimup Creek and the Donnelly River, which were reduced to a few pools at this time of the year. The camp is beside a stagnant pool in the Donnelly but the birds swooping seem to suggest there is fish life there. Tomorrow is the first of ten 20+ kilometres days so I will be up early to make sure that I am in before sunset at Boarding House Campsite.
Tonight I am resting at the Tom Road Campsite, which is a ten bedder and I am the only one in residence. Lit a fire for company and to boil some water and dry my clothes but that is the only company for tonight. No one joined me nor passed me going the other way today. So it is very quiet.
The four hours has gone quickly having cooked my dehydrated beef, potato and peas. A Cup o Soup before hand and a coffee and chocolate to finish. All topped up with the Multi Vitamins, the Fish Oil tablets and the Magnesium. All compensatory.
I bathed with my wet ones and scrubbed my fangs in a little fold down tub. So ready for bed and hopefully a good rest to prepare for tomorrow. Rest becomes obvious in the early am and seems to have you ready for the next day. Have done long walks before so I can do it ok. Just a matter of being patient and getting in before sunset.
Wednesday 19th April, 2017.
The journey from Tom Road to Boarding House Campsite took 11 hours, as this is one of the longest sections on the track – 24.2 kilometres. It was good to get a feel for long sections as never ending as it seemed.
The track followed the Donnelly River which at times was magnificent with big ponds and lovely trickling waterfalls over black granite at other times not more than a congealed mud hole.
In the afternoon I followed the old timber rail path, the sleepers and rails long gone. This was far easier but the occasional hill climbs whetted the Bib planner’s fiendish delight.
The track was unremittingly undulating which slowed my progress due to my aversion to hills. It was good to accomplish the task as this was one of the longest sections and I can learn a bit about progressing on such days.
The track varied from graded roads to whisper quiet leaf based ground. The Karris are currently shedding leaves and bark and branches, which made life a little difficult.
Wildlife was still missing.
The skies were a little overcast followed by a shower or two.
Tomorrow I walk 20 kilometres to Beavis Campsite, which will see how much is left in the tank after today.
Sorry about the brevity. Not a lot of time to pen the thoughts for the day after getting in late.
Wednesday 20th April 2017.
Had one of the most relaxed sleeps on a self-inflating mattress last night. Just not enough of it! Awake at 5am and up and away by 7.30am. But read the fine print
“Tis one of the more challenging sections along the track. Climbing in and out of the Donnelly River valley several times.”
And that was how it was on our way to Beavis Campsite some 21 kilometres away. From the outset climbing large hills, which continued during the day. Up to the viewing of the whole pretty valley and then down to see the workings of humanity since it was discovered. Bridges and paths were of good quality and very well positioned.
After lunch there were two monsters to be climbed and each was energy sapping and time delaying. Consequently my entry into camp was after 7pm and again “home alone”. Nevertheless evening chores to be done and the time flies. Now off to bed to grab what else one can.
The countryside was pretty but isolated. No one else on the track. The only conversation was with a couple who were four wheel driving on the road. Whereas I was walking on the Track. They were kind enough to give me some of their marshmallow Easter egg before they moved off.
Tomorrow I break new ground and after a final fling with the Donnelly River. Then it’s off south to Beedelup territory.
Traffic comes and goes on nearby roads but one was pretty isolated on the walk. Occasionally a Cessna or you come close to a major highway but generally quiet.
Friday 21st April, 2017.
Set out from Beavis for Beedelup Campsite (22 kilometres) with great enthusiasm. While the Roller Coaster was to continue for a while, it would not be there for the whole day.
Ascending for the first time during the day I encountered some Parks Workers doing maintenance. They were concerned about my welfare before pressing off to do their tasks for the day.
The first part was with clear directions but after that the signposts were less obvious and the commentary in the little guidebook became vague. At lunch a middle-aged Iowa woman came along and in our chatting she expressed the same disappointment.
During the afternoon I tripped and hit my head on a log but no serious damage.
Pressing on it became dark and I had to navigate a rough pathway near the Beedelup Falls in the dark. A protruding rock tripped me into an uncontrollable run and I ended up on my face with bark missing from my nose and arm.
Pressing on I tried to find the campsite but could not. The little signs went in different directions and I followed the wrong one. Lost on the back roads I went down again with pack on top of me.
Finally I found a little shelter on the opposite side of the Resorts Lake. I slept there the night and boiled water from the lake and added some of my little tablets, which are designed to make it safe.
What of tomorrow?
I would see what the morning would bring.
Saturday. 22nd April 2017
Woke in Frogs Hollow and rounded up my gear wondering what to do. Confused and wounded I really did not believe a 25 kilometres walk across to Pemberton was possible.
I retraced my steps from the previous night and found myself still unable to find the campsite. What to do now? Ring my emergency services at Capel, go and stay at the nearby Resort. Find that Campsite and sit it out for a day until I was a little recovered.
A Parks Department worker servicing the toilets saw me and asked me how I was. What a good opener and I told him of my dilemma. He quickly offered,
“I will drive you into Pemberton.” Wow. Just the answer.
We had a good conversation on the way into town and he showed me roughly where the campsite was; about 2ks on from where he found me.
The Motel lady was great. Allowed me early entry at 10am and sympathized with my obvious injuries apparent on face and arm.
I had a magnificent shower, which was the beginning of restoration.
The wounds on my eyebrows, face and elbow looked cleaner and seemed not to be too threatening.
I walked the kilometre into town and got my laundry washed and dried. Then bought bits and pieces for the ongoing trip and had a coffee at the bakery. Found the energy to get back to the Motel and died the first of several sleeps for the day. Nighttime found me with a bit more energy and I wandered down to the Pub for an overwhelming set of chicken breasts.
Home to bed and ready for tomorrow. Sleep came easy.
I will have to work out how to do the 24 kilometres from Beedelup to Pemberton. Alternatives are being considered.
Sunday 23rd April 2017.
Today I got away early, 8am and it was not long before I was at Pemberton’s iconic Gloucester Tree. Tempted to climb with a full pack up the 127-iron stake steps but decided to give it a miss. Still a little sore from Friday’s “dives” but the days rest, hot showers and good food eased the pain.
Pressing onward the day unfolded with greater ease than the previous days. There were the inevitable rises but these were on walks down old log train track. These formations generally of not great gradient, which made passage easier. The rolling hills were dotted with various trees, particularly the Karri in their magnificence but also Karri-Oaks with their needle droppings. The occasional log ramps and cable told a bit of former logging history.
Today was 22.6 kilometres and along the way I met a couple on a day walk from Sydney and then a French man who was sprinting up the Bib from Albany at 5kph. I am struggling to get above 2kph at present.
I arrived in Warren Campsite just on dark I was greeted by a Territorian, a Novacastrian and a young girl from Perth. Getting in late means there is not much conversation. At 8.43pm they are all asleep as I will be soon.
Tonight it was Bolognaise with Deb potato and dried peas. A bit of chocolate, which Ruth found, was washed down with some Motel coffee.
Tomorrow is a 21 ks trek and the sixth one of ten over 20 ks in this present stint. Glad when they will be over, they are a bit too far.
Early rising demanded.
Monday 24th April, 2017.
Today I journeyed from Warren Campsite to Schafer Campsite a distance of 21 kilometres. It took 11 hours of walking and I am tonight sharing the facility with a Freelance Travel Writer, Michelle Ryan who is doing her research for pieces she hopes to publish.
It was a long day in and out of the Warren River. The ups and downs of the riverbanks were quite demanding walking. Occasionally the ponds became bigger puddles worth stopping for but generally it was just relentlessly pushing on. The afternoon was much easier although dangerous. The multitudinous layers of bark, leaf, twigs and bigger sticks bring you down from time to time. They have a trick of flicking up with you left foot and catching you with your right. My great damage today was my upper thigh as I fell onto my wallet, which was in my right pocket, and so I have what could be called a wallet “corkie”.
It was good to have time with Michelle who was not like some of the “Walking Wankers” as she calls them – people who know everything and want to force it on you.
Michelle shared similar falling experiences and marveled, as do I that more serious damage has not yet been caused despite the constant tripping. She also carries about 20 kilos in her pack as she has equipment and is quite a camp gourmet. She cooks flatbread, cakes, various recipes as well as popcorn. Her specialty is an orange cake cooked in an orange skin surrounded by foil.
Tomorrow I am up at three to be off by four to walk 14 ks into Northcliffe to catch the bus to Pemberton at 11am. I have done such a speedy trip before; let us see how this one goes.
It will be good to have three nights and four days at Pemberton for R&R before the next 8 days sojourn down to Walpole.
Tuesday 25th April, 2017.
I slept well on my refurbished self-inflating mattress and woke soundly at 2.30am. An hour and a half later I had packed everything up and was off at 4am. The challenge was to walk the 14 kilometres into Northcliffe before 10am – I actually arrived at 8am, which was a good pace. I avoided the track, as the possibility of tripping while it was still dark was ominous. I took to the gravel and sealed roads, which may have helped my speed and leveled out the journey a bit as well. I spent a little time with some poddy calves that gathered round while I paused near their electric fence. When I hit the main road the car traffic increased especially those towing boats off fishing at the nearby coast on Anzac Day. None offered the Bibber a lift!!
I breakfasted at the local Cafe just after they finished their Gunfire Breakfast having had a Dawn Service for Anzac Day earlier.
I tried to stay awake in the Cafe increasing my orders from an original breakfast to coffee and then a milkshake. Finally chooffed off to the nearby bus shelter and had a great conversation with a Finnish girl who is working on a local dairy farm gaining some wider experience.
Then onto the bus for a 20-minute trip to Pemberton who were just concluding an 11am Anzac Day Service. I then carried the turtle a kilometre up the hill to the Motel. Shower, chat with Ruth and others and then a pain and tiredness induced sleep.
Tonight I ate at the local Pub and then returned to tidy up before sleep.
I enjoy the camping routine but it was nice to be back in civilization.
So ends the week long stretch of 20+ kilometres walking days. There will be another 4 big ones to come but not in a bunch like this. I covered 170 kilometres last week and overall have covered 625 kilometres since leaving Kalamunda.
The half way mark was reached last week, on Wednesday I think a photo of which is on my Facebook page.
Wednesday 26th April, 2017.
I am including a report I briefly posted on Facebook. I have since taken it down. Michelle Ryan – Freelance Travel Writer Walking South to North on the Bibbulmun, wrote it. We met as you can see at the Schafer Camp south of Pemberton on the 24th April 2017.
As this is from Michelle’s blog, her business, I thought it better that this be on a less public forum. She is seriously documenting her journey up the Bib for professional reasons. You can read her story and see her work at:
(Read: My 1000km journey)
24th April 2017
About 7pm I’m just finishing my cup of coffee thinks that curling up might be a good idea when I looked up and saw a torchlight bobbing along through the bushes. As it got closer I sung out welcome to the stranger and no reply. It got closer so I waited a bit more before singing out again. Still not reply. Then the light was almost on camp and I saw it was an older man hobbling into camp. He looked shattered, barely able to speak he looked up and said hello then sat in the hut with a thud as his pack hit the ground. He had a shocking day of around 11hrs walking and had fallen a few times. The poor guys looked in pain. We chattered and he had some food telling me of his journey. Richard is from Melbourne and has been trying to do the track in sections for the last year and really hopes to finish it this time as he doesn’t feel he can do this for much longer. Watching him I’m not sure if he will be able to continue to the end. The sand dunes will be too hard for him I feel, I hope he does though. Gave him some muscle ointment to help relieve his pain and hopefully he can get a good night sleep though he said he will be leaving around 3 in the morning as he needs to catch a bus back to Pemberton for a rest before he continues and the bus leaves Northcliffe at 10am. I don’t think he will make the bus.
I actually made it with three hours to spare.
And then…
26th April Pemberton.
Pemberton as a town is lovely and when I walked in I ran into Richard from the other night out at camp. We ended up having dinner together and it was good to see he is doing well. He plans to get back on the track Saturday so I wish him all the best for a comfortable walk.
Richard Hart is my walking name. I chose that name as it has special significance. I will give a leftover mouldy Mars Bar to the first person who works it out without having been told what it means!!
The use of Track Names is not uncommon. I guess some use them for fun or to express who they are and what they are doing. Some also seek anonymity so as not to be pestered by other walkers who might be a bit amorous. These names include:
Mark Mad; Moonbeams; Two Carnabies; Pack Animal; Track Traker; Walking bush; 161 & 162.
Friday 28th April, 2017.
I have returned to the little hamlet of Northcliffe in preparation for embarking on the next stage of my journey tomorrow. Another long section coming up: 141 ks over eight days. I will end up at Walpole where I will rest for a few days. Hopefully the terrain will ease off a bit as we near the coast.
Tonight I am staying at the Pub, which gives me a rural touch. There is a stage area outside where I am writing and various local groups have come in to entertain. The audience of mainly young people has gathered and seems to be enjoying themselves. There are quite a number of backpackers working in the area. Danes, Finns and Italians. Quite interesting. Another great pub meal: bolognaise with the pasta made by the resident Chef.
Since Tuesday I have been resting in Pemberton. Stayed at the Gloucester Motel in the care of Donna the Manager who is quite service oriented which made the stay more comfortable. It is about 1 kilometre out of town so that kept the muscles working twice a day in and out for shopping or dinner.
This area has a strong tradition of timber but this is easing off now. I went to the Timber Park in nearby Manjimup today to have a look at the various species and see something of that history. Diversification of farming has changed he nature of farming – even moved many away from dairying. This area is probably becoming the world’s best centre for truffles and many have moved into avocados – at $3 a pop why not. They are but two of a great variety of new agriculture in this changing setting.
I have used the TransWA buses to get around. It is a system run by the railways offering daily service between main centres. The drivers are ultra friendly, the buses extremely comfortable and Bib people are jumping on or off with regularity.
The area I am about to enter into is quite sparse in terms of population and settlements. There are virtually none between here and Walpole, which is about 90 ks by road. So no transmission towers and a week of silences is expected. I will get notes out if I hit a point where there is reception. We will see.
Thank you for your support and interest. I really appreciate it the thoughtful words flowing back. Pray that I stay upright!!!
I was told that I might be sharing the track with a family of four. They were a little behind me. The husband and wife started walking the track when expecting their first. On the second trip they took the baby. Then did a bit more when expecting the second and over the past few weeks have been walking the track with a babe – about 6 months and one about 18 months. Mum carried the kids, Dad the gear. Today it all got too much and they were on the bus back to Perth to consider how to finish the trek one day. Carrying for one is tough enough. Carrying for four, I cannot imagine. I admired their enthusiasm and their incredible achievement. They have walked 650 kilometres. One day they may finish.
The skies are sunny for another week over here, which is good for walking and for the wrigglies. Talk with you soon. Thanks to Ruth for being the go between. We thought it was a good way of saving power and useage.
Saturday 29th April, 2017.
Today I began the long trek from Northcliffe to Walpole, a distance of 142 ks. This is an eight-day trek and by far the longest on the Bib Track.
I rose early at 5am and was off by 6.30am. A quick toasted sandwich and coffee at the local cafe was followed by a trip to the local supermarket to pick up two items. Then off down the road, firstly on the sealed section about 3 ks out of town and then the track dived off into the bush.
Thankfully today is only 15 ks to Gardner Campsite and I covered it in just over 5 hours with three long stops. The terrain was finally merciful. No long haul hills but simple rises through bush. Some of the Karri trees remain but other species break out to offer contrast. I followed the Gardner River but it did not possess the roller coaster ride like the Donnelly River. The soil was quite sandy and blooms varied in the late autumn. Vegetation increased on the track profusely at one stage making progress difficult. But then it was a matter of simple rises us to the campsite.
This Camp is one of two new sites having been burnt out in fires two years ago. It is made of packed earth and steel and designed to withstand fire.
I passed one guy on the way who was double hutting and arrived to meet Kate Brennan a mid aged Mum trying to do the Bib by herself. She has enjoyed company along the way but they have sped on ahead. Kate’s Mum was an advocate in the Uniting Church for women’s Ordination and is an old friend of Muriel Porter of the Anglican Church whom Ruth and I know.
Having arrived at 12.30pm there was lots of time to chat, which we did. Time also to sleep and spend a bit of time preparing a pizza for tea. Now all the ablutions are done at 7pm and its time for bed.
Another shortie tomorrow, 16 ks, before a 26ks on Monday. They are easier, or is my mind a bit more relaxed now that the difficult stretch of long sections is behind. It may be a mental game.
Sunday 30th April, 2017.
Today I covered 16 kilometres in 6 hours, which is picking up the pace a little. The countryside was relatively flat and when there were hills they were simple rises out of gullies. The countryside was sandy with the occasional patch of red earth, which creates good growing space for the Karri trees. But it was a diversity of flora in sand plain, which was washed and drowned in the winter wet. I continued to follow the Gardner River along its flattish banks. It is a flowing river but with small ponds and the occasional waterhole.
I am eating my way down the pack in anticipation of picking up a food drop on Wednesday. A guy from Walpole will drop my plastic box of goodies at a prearranged place.
It is very quiet around the track. Saw a piglet and proceeded to make a lot of noise in case Mum thought I wanted young bacon. It disappeared into the bush without a confrontation.
Tonight’s Campsite is set on Lake Maringup and is surrounded by a Karri forest. The frogs are groaning in the background and there is the occasional twitter in the trees.
My company tonight is Peter from Northern New South Wales who has left his job to do the walk. His partner had to give it up recently, as she was not fit enough for the ardor. She will rejoin him for short sections.
Hard to believe today is Sunday. Days become a blur but it was good to get two out of the eight sections for this week done.
Tomorrow is a 25.7 kilometres section to Dog Pool Campsite but they tell me it is very flat and a large part is on a gravel road. So a good 9 hour day coming up unless I move more quickly that usually. It is the longest section on the trail.
The fire is blazing in the fire pit. It is a coolish night after a varying day. Started off with drizzle and then the sun came out. Prefer it to be sunny but on the cool side.
Off to bed now.
Monday 1st May, 2017
I left the lakeside camp and the barking frogs and the sound of the Southern Ocean pounding somewhere to the south of us. Today was a long haul. Actually the longest stretch in the whole Bib walk – 25.7 kilometres. I set off early, 6.30am and made great strides through the first of three sections. Then fatigue or frustration and the rest was hard work. Fortunately the countryside was very flat which made an earlier finish possible.
I left the beautiful lakeside and wandered through groves of Karri trees. This then broke out into flatland, which in the winter is very swampy and often the walkers have to wade through sections of it.
A good chance for tea tree and bottlebrush swamp, which is just coming to an end. Peppermint and Karri oak also grow in patches.
Crunching ones way through the fallen bark and limbs is always a hazard but negotiated today with care. Scrubby growth over your head forms an archway to pass through and then it breaks out into reidy plains. A long four kilometres walk leads to Dog Pool neatly set beside a running waterfall and a good place to bathe tired feet.
This is a new campsite, fire replacement. Made out of rammed earth with a single platform for sleeping. I am on my own tonight which is a little sad. I enjoyed the company in the last four huts and was sort of looking forward to company again. Tomorrow I head for Mt Chance, a twenty kilometres hike, which is one of three long walks in this section. The third comes on Wednesday a 21 kilometres walk. Thursday, Friday and Saturday are a bit more generous.
The time is coming when you will receive these in a burst as I gain momentary reception. I hope you are finding them interesting.
Tuesday 2nd May, 2017
Rose at 4.30am in order to get going early, as today was another long day – 20 kilometres to Mt Chance Campsite. Said farewell to little Mouse, my only company for the night who tried hard but failed to eat all my goodies. The sun was just rising when I left at 6.30am and I thought I was off to a good start. Aches and pains got me searching for Panadol, which slowed things, a bit.
The mornings are good, it is where most of the hard, fast work occurs and so I was halfway at 11am. The rest of the day is slow as tiredness sets in so I arrived at 3.30pm.
The first part of the day was trundling up a sandy
Marron Road, which was on a steady incline heading for the Pingerup Plains. I dined well at 11am on salami, cherry tomatoes, some olives and a few dried apricots. Had a bit of peanut paste on a bit of flatbread I bought in Pemberton. Tomorrow I pick up a food drop about ten kilometres down the track where the Broke Inlet Road crosses the Bib Track. A guy from Walpole had been arranging this for me.
This afternoon was a completely different story. After being on the road all morning we suddenly took to the bush. It was a small path, which wove its way across the winter-wetted plains. Today it was dry and the bush was right up to the walking path. Often you could not see far ahead to know if you had to jump a snake. None appeared for me thankfully and you can imagine that speed through this section of about 8 kilometres was at a pace. Occasionally the path cut through small jarrah forests but still surrounded by head high bushes and not much light on the path. I believe part of the journey tomorrow is in the same sort of territory.
Finally arrived at the hut, which is on a spur off the main track and in the lee of Mount Chance. One of the two guys staying here tonight went up the hill while the other had a shower??. My energy levels are too depleted for that and there are always other tasks to do when you get in.
So, I am sharing with two guys who are going south north from Walpole to Northcliffe. Eight days in all. They continue to provide a kaleidoscope of human endeavor that I am finding on the track.
So halfway between Northcliffe and Walpole today Tuesday. Tomorrow is the last of the long walks for a while but no less asking for endeavor.
Wednesday 3rd May, 2017.
Up early, 4.30am in order to get to the next place before dark. Achieved my goal arriving at Woolbales at 3.30pm – 21.8 kilometres. The flat terrain made the task easier.
Started off on the Pingerup Plains which is a low lying area full of natural vegetation that becomes flooded in the winter. Bib walkers are able to follow the path but it generally underwater probably to boot laces height. Must be fun walking.
Again the vegetation was very close to the walking path causing one small wriggly to get out of my way. Our little wrens still follow but the rest of the wildlife stays its distance. The other day I saw a very little piglet and the presence of pigs can be noticed by the wallowing holes they make particularly in the damper places. The track will then break into patches of treed vegetation of various species. This is not like the Karri or Jar rah forests but spasmodic stands of this or that or mixed. Mount Chance, Mount Pingerup and Mt Woolbales are all features of the countryside giving relief to the flatness of the Pingerup plain.
The added event for the day was to resupply from a food drop I had organized with a local Lee. He dropped it off several days ago and it was in place, untouched. So I now have enough food to get me to Walpole on the weekend.
Tonight I am in Woolbales Campsite so named because the local hills are shaped like Woolbales. There are seven in camp so we are in a bit squeeze. Some doing the long walk others just doing a few pieces.
Tomorrow I head for the coast and I will try to get up early as there are a few hills at the end, which will slow me down.
Now 7pm and all are in bed and that is where I will now go. I sleep well on my blow up mattress.
Thursday 4th May, 2017.
Suddenly the phone beeps with incoming emails and you have reception. What the logic is I am not sure because it is not always on a hill, sometimes in a river valley. But today it was on a hill and I was able to chat with Ruth and send off Bib 15. There is no logical continuity to this, it just happens when it just happens.
At present I am sitting in the dark in the Long Point Campsite. It is 7.26pm and I am home alone tonight in contrast with the group we had last night.
I arrived about 4pm after a very long day. The actual distance was 17.5 kilometres. My Fit Bit said it was 22.21 kilometres. It actually felt that far as there were tedious climbs, I dread when the book says “Ascent” because you know you are in for it.
Nevertheless it was an enjoyable day in some ways which I will explain as I go along.
I rose at 4.30am and tried not to disturb my fellow travelers. Packed and ready to go at 6.50am, it is amazing where the time goes getting everything into the right spot and making sure nothing is left behind.
The first part was a mixture of previous days. The flatland of the Pingerup Plains and occasional stands of Karri, Marri and other trees. Some granite slopes provided a challenge to stay upright and the twigs and branches were in their tripping mood. A number of bushes and trees had fallen onto the track and presented a hurdle and ingenuity to get over with a full pack.
I was going well until I hit he sandhills, which slowed me down considerably. Stunning views over the Southern Ocean eventually rewarded me. I thought of Chris Atmore as this was the part she would like to have done.
The view over the ocean was fantastic probably aided by relief at not having to look at trees for a while. The nearby islands and the occasional passing boat created a beautiful diverse relief. Eventually I descended to Mandalay Beach and walked it for a while. The white, the aqua marine and the contrasting islands nearby provided rich beauty.
Then came the pain, as it was necessary to resume the track firstly on sand dunes and then on firmer beach pathways with the usual undergrowth and lovely peppermints.
It was another roller coaster but buoyed on by seeing the ocean I found a new strength to get to the end. But the end was a long time coming and the journey stretched into 8 hours. But at least I was in before dark, which allowed me to string up the wet clothing as the whispering rain had taken its toll during the day. Just enough to make it unpleasant and wet.
So I have feasted from my re-supply again tonight. My packet soup which is always very welcome when I first arrive, gets the salt back into the system. Then my dried beef refreshed by hot water sharing its life with Deb potato and rehydrated peas and mint. I carry some onion flakes and a bit of ginger and some garlic. Add a little Parmesan and some tomato paste and the day’s walk is well rewarded. Ruth managed to get me some blocks of dark chocolate which is a great finish with a coffee bag and Sustagen powder.
So the week is coming to a finish. It has been hard but enjoyable to see the variety of vegetation, geography and the rich contrasts in this place. Not far off the highway but really only accessible by foot.
Tomorrow, Friday is another supposedly shorter journey but no doubt will be full of challenge, especially the hills. The pack will be lighter after a day of eating some of the goodies I got yesterday. Particularly the apples, the bread rolls and the cherry tomatoes.
I have my Mousey mates again tonight trying to break into the plastic bins, which are here for food protection.
Must go, 7.45pm calls for bed.
Friday the 5th of May 2017.
For those who may think I sit up late at night keeping my thumbs going on my iPhone keypad, rest assured that I carry a lightweight Apple keyboard. It has been brilliant in getting the story out so quickly.
Internet contact has been better than predicted. Since Tuesday night I have had spasmodic opportunity to say “hi” to people or get the Bib news out. That has been good. Ruth and I often chat from a lonely hillside somewhere near the coast of nowhere.
Today was a short day, 13 kilometres from Long Point to Mt Clare but it took 7 hours to get here. Good thing I was in by 2pm, which gives a chance to rest and get other things done. I also took a walk to the top of Mount Clare where the campsite is situation. However no line of communications.
The day started early again at 4.30am. Takes hours to pack and go and so I pressed on at 7am. It was raining for the first part of the trip so all gear was on for the pack and me. About midday the forecast was good so off it all came.
Today’s journey meandered through the sand dunes eventually turning inland and having me at Mt Clare.
It was a final chance to catch a glimpse, for the moment, of the magnificent Southern Ocean with its sparkling majesty. At one time I also caught a glimpse of some green farmland and I must confess that the forests are magnificent but they do become overwhelming at times.
The roller coaster hills slowed me down and breaks were often called for. Then I reached the summit of the sandhills, Hush Hush Ridge, which allowed me to look out on the blue and the islands but also to look back and view the flatlands of the Pingerup plains where I had been walking during the week. Also the various elevated dots on the horizon: Mt Pingerup, Mt Hopkins, Mt Clare (where I was heading) as well as Broke Inlet, Cliffy Head and Chatham Island which dominates this area’s landscape. Rests mean you have to dump your pack for a while and the problem is how to get the pack back on the back when there are no stumps to throw from. The birds hear spotty expressions at these times.
Again I met no one on the track today and again I am home alone tonight. Saves on the chatter a bit and means another good early night.
The second part of my journey today took me inland. Back to the old sandy roads, narrow bush tracks – no room for two poles here and back into the forests. This time there was the Karri and the Peppermint but also the Tingle a tall redwood tree apparent in this area alone. No snakes today like my little yellow fellow and my metre long Tiger, which ambled off the path yesterday on my way into camp.
So despite what I previously said I feasted richly on the Southern Ocean and then re-entered the forests. The latter was truly magnificent: dank, shed bark, amazingly tall and girthed, a stunning visual to walk through; an amazing place to be and experience.
After crossing several bridges including a swinging one the last challenge. The Campsite was on the top of Mt Clare and took over a kilometre of walking uphill to get there. Quite a way to finish the day. My trick comes from Lindsay Hassett. Someone asked him, “How do you make a century in cricket?” His response was “Ten runs at a time”. I climb hills ten steps at a time, sometimes more sometimes less.
Anyway I got here and it is amazing how the pain of the day disappears when the boots come off and all your clothes (which are wet) and camp shoes and dry clothes replace them.
As no fires can be lit between Dog Pool Campsite and Albany drying clothes is going to be an issue. The product promise of quick drying often comes true. It did not last night.
Tomorrow I head for Walpole, the end of this section. It is a small town and was once where the Bib concluded. I have three nights and two days here. Sleep in, wash clothes, eat in restaurants and so on. Also to prepare for the next week which is going to be very difficult as there are three days on the beaches meaning very slow walking in sand dunes. So, let the tyres down minimize the pack weight and off we go.
Thanks for all the greetings people have sent I really appreciate your interest and support.
My question is, “Does the real world still exist? Malcolm and Donald and all the rest.” This place is an escape from such realities. I don’t use my phone to keep up with that stuff.
But it will return!!!
Saturday 6th May 2017.
Finally arrived at Walpole after 8 days of walking from Northcliffe. A nice feeling of accomplishment. It was followed by two Spearmint milkshakes, my beers for Justin. Cut all the tape off feet, toes, ankles, knees and hand and had nice hot shower with some lovely soap from the Pharmacy. Then the washing was done and dried very quickly because of the material in the walking clothes and also the lovely warm, windy day here did the job while I slept.
Earlier in the day I rose at 4.30am again and was off by 7am. Beautiful descending through and avenue of lovely Karri and Tingle trees all nicely delineated by information panels on the side of the track. The Manjimup Council does a magnificent job in providing facilities, which greatly enhance the tourist capacity of this area. Not hard to value add but it does take thought and money.
I descended to the plain, not before a little taxing rise, which had me at John Rate Lookout with a little glimpse of the Walpole/Nornalup Inlet. Then back on the track slowly winding my way towards Walpole. And would you believe the Track crosses over a Golf Course and calls one to be mindful of the potential ace one might be blocking.
Further down to a bridge over the river to meet a farmer and his wife from Kojonup fishing for black Bream. Onward through the outer suburbs (?) of Walpole and finally hit the outskirts and then into town.
Made a beeline for the Travel Centre as they were holding some parcels of goodies for me. They were kind enough to load parcels and pack into a car and brought me up to the Youth Hostel. I have a single room so space to spread out and reorganize and rest.
Surfers staying at the Hostel. They came down to ride “The Right” a huge wave out to sea. They are towed out by Jet Ski to tackle the monster. Tim Winton alludes to it in his novel “Breath” where he calls it the Bombora. The surfers showed me some phone footage taken that morning and were laughing at one of their number who was wiped out in the process but survived the experience.
Tomorrow I might Church at the local Anglican and laze around. Monday there is an inlet cruise for several hours to consider but basically just adding and subtracting to the pack.
It is really exciting to be within two weeks of my goal. The task is very simple, as the lady in Kalamunda said, “One foot after the other!” And then you put the pack on and then the hills and then you count to ten!!
I have covered 285 kilometres since I left Donnelly River on the 18th of April. Only 210 kilometres to Albany which I hope to achieve by tomorrow fortnight. Then Ruth and I will go back to Pemberton to do that 24 kilometres I missed when I was injured. So it is all coming together. May it do so safely and without effort beyond me?
It is a strange little encapsulated world I am in and it will be strange to return to the wider community. Deeply enriching powerfully fulfilling and overwhelming in the magnificence I have found in this place and in many of the people I have met.
Sunday 7th May, 2017.
It was good to sleep between sheets last night although difficult to get a good position. It seems that all sides are damaged with tears or bruises so getting a good sleeping location is not easy. Then the Panadol kicks in and soon it is morning.
Said farewell to two walkers who are to be dropped off back where I was about last Thursday. They will then walk back to Northcliffe over the next four days.
Just been chatting to a guy from Ballarat who is riding his bike from Perth to Melbourne. Does about 80 kilometres a day so should be home for Christmas!!
Walpole is abuzz again this morning. The weekends bring the tourists or the visitors with weekender shacks here. Cars from elsewhere are obvious but most noticeable are the Grey Slownads with their tag alongs of various sorts progressing the massive transfer of capital from baby boomer bank accounts to various forms of tourism. And then there are the noisy Hogs on their two wheelers chattering away with their noisy exhausts often two by two or more, some with their lady on the back some with the lady at the handlebars.
Went to the local Anglican Church where a retired Priest took an extremely ordered service with flautist and technological input through computer and data projector that was almost seamless.
Wandered around to the Bakery for a coffee and then over to the Visitor Centre for a chat and to book my ticket on the 3-hour boat cruise of the inlets tomorrow. Then back for lunch at the Phillipines cafe with Sweet and Sour Pork. Now back in residence for a bit more washing and a nap. The afternoon was spent sorting things out to reduce weight in the pack. Seems I have oversupplied myself to this point so I will have to work out what to do with the extra week of food. With Bib walkers using this place I might just leave it for any who could use.
Went back to the Filipino Cafe as they were the only one open. Had a great noodle stir-fry, massive meal again so I have breaky or lunch for tomorrow.
So begins another week. It will be interesting to see how this one goes. Bit of flat track, some hills and I believe lots of sand on hills and beaches. A few long days as well. Will end this section on Monday week at Denmark. Will stay with my niece and her husband, which will be nice for a night.
Monday 8th May, 2017.
Today was another “rest” day although fairly active. I headed for the Jetty to meet Garry the Captain of the Inlet Cruise. In the typical twenty seater, equipped with good toilet, flat bottomed covered boat. We set off, as did Garry Muir who was a fund of knowledge about everything. And a comedian to boot! He proceeded to inform us about the local environment and its history as well as diversions about apples, the Light Horse and so on. We sat over the Moses line where the fresh water meets the salt water and how the water funnels its way down from Broome at a warmer temperature than that which comes from elsewhere. I was pleased to hear that there has been a reduction of predators and an increase in the Quokka population throughout the area.
The original plan was to log all the trees around the inlet and mine the coal seams, which run down to the shores. Thankfully a preservation process was put in place and the pristine nature of this area is apparent as you move around. Even farming around the area is limited. There is a website which gives you an insight into Walpole and has some video which includes Captain Gary from today’s cruise. Look for his video “Australia’s Natural Landscape”.
You can also see a bit of video of the “Bombora” which has the gnarly waves for surfers out to sea. Here they call it “The Right” and it is caused by the combination of waves that rolls in from Antarctica and the unique granite sea floor. So they say!!
If you are interested go to:
A warning that the language in the surfing one is course at times.
Back into town I went for my Spearmint milkshake and a few little rolls for lunch. Then I set about filling the gaps in the backpack which will make it a little heavier for a few days but with necessary items.
The afternoon was taken up by reorganizing the pack and getting final washing done. I will hit the track at 7am in the morning.
Had a nice meal of fish and chips at the local pub. Have been impressed by the quality of cooking at the pubs over here. Volume and preparation are always excellent. My waitress was from Belgium – a backpacker. Good chat about Belgium where she was from and where Ruth and I had been several times.
Came back and dealt with the oversupply of food – left it for future walkers. There is food waiting for me at the next two stops: Peaceful Bay and Denmark.
Said farewell to Richard, the Manager, as I will be gone before he is up.
So off we go again.
Tuesday 9th May, 2017.
I said farewell to Richard and the Youth Hostel at Walpole after a very pleasant stay over the three nights. The provisions were basic and yet sufficient with a good double bed in a single room and an excellent kitchen and living area with a large flat screen T.V. I caught up on all the washing and preparation for the next stage and was ready to go at 8am.
The track takes you along the beautiful Inlets Walpole and Nornalup. Eventually leading to Coalmine Beach where underneath lies the coal seam that was never mined. Past the Caravan Park and grabbing an Icy Pole on the way through I wended my way up a strong rise to a lower then a higher lookout. There I held conversation with some German tourists and a couple from Lake Macquarie. The stunning view across the inlets and out to see was magic. Beautiful shapes and colours. A magnificent place! No wonder they have sought to preserve this heritage.
Back on the track and it wasn’t long before I was really amongst the Tingle trees. Beautiful flowering Tingles and their special patch on the earth. They have a huge base and when burnt out it becomes quite cavernous and one tree became quite famous. Many of us, my parents included would drive their cars into the base of the tree and park them for the family photograph. Quite a novel part of the holiday. That tree has since fallen over and the practice no longer continues. Visitors are kept away from the base of large trees as it weakens the root system upon which the tree depends for nourishment and stability.
I wandered among the Black and the Yellow tingles which are mixed between the Karri and the Karri pine, which provide a magnificent walkway along the path with their little needles creating a soft walking space. The Karris are messy with huge hunks of bark and branches littering the pathway.
So it was now on the downside of the morning climb and walking through the rich diversity of trees and other foliage with deep valleys as a backdrop and the occasional gurgling stream right down at the bottom. Occasionally you could see across the valleys to the endless line of trees and shapes which forms a wonderful forest of seeming never ending scale.
The last five kilometres into camps always seems to take the longest in the day but finally I arrived. Another couple had preceded me,
Peter and Michelle and we chattered and then set about completing all the necessary tasks. Peter and Michelle have finally become school student free and are exploring their new state by doing a bit of bush walking. They will walk three more days in the same direction as myself – planning to terminate at Peaceful Bay.
Tonight I am at the Frankland River Campsite 18 kilometres from Walpole. It is perched above this river, which is very much a trickling autumn stream. It will gather force when the break in the season comes which I do not anticipate until Saturday week!! It was lovely to sit by the river for a few moments tonight and enjoy its little flow and imagine the life it provides for its inhabitants.
So completes Campsite 48 of 60. Tomorrow I continue through the forests of Karri, Tingle, Marri and the Sheok, which I love so much. Ruth and I visited the Valley of the Giants several years ago and I will revisit that area tomorrow. They have a Tree Top Walk, which is one of my favourite pastimes!!! Not sure if I will indulge. May use the time to keep going to get into camp early like I did today. It is so helpful and restful to be able to stop relatively early in the day.
Tonight I have no reception, which is probably a good place to be on Budget Night. I will get this out tomorrow when a connection is established.
Seems a pity to be racing through such beauty, it would be nice to stop and ponder and yet if I did that I may not see it all.
Wednesday 10th May, 2017.
Today was a bit of a cross country going west to east. The goal was to go from the beautiful Frankland River Valley across to the site of the Rooftop view of the forest constructed some years ago. Despite the rain there were still a number of tourists at the overlooking site wanting to see these magnificent trees from a different perspective.
My view has been at ground level as we are now in the heart of the bulbulous Tingle territory. They spring up in their magnificence all around and one is captured by the bulk and height (although not the biggest tree in Australia) but it flowers which makes it somewhat unique. Their great bases are often burnt out and one can imagine indigenous or early settlers finding a home in these huge bases especially on days like today, cold and wet. A number of the trees have come to their end some crashing over the track, which requires arduous diversion at times. Having wandered through this majesty I am now ready to resume my coastal journey, which will be my experience for the last ten days.
Today is was a roller coaster in the cross country with small rises to be climbed and creeks to be crossed. Bridges have been well constructed by the Bibbulmun Foundation volunteers and provide safe access over difficult ditches. The foliage continued in the vein of yesterday. Lovely straight Karri and distorted Tingles. Pine needled Karri and Marris with the occasional Jarrah. Given the dirt we tramped over, red soil and sandy as well as the abundance of rain this is one of those pockets on earth where trees can do little but grow.
I left at 7am after rising at 4.30am. I kept a good pace and was at Giants Campsite by 2pm – 15 kilometres. On the way I met students from Joondalup Senior College doing part of their studies on trek. Some were walking camp to camp while others were simply day packing with transport waiting at a main backroad. My goal was to call to the Information Centre at the Air Walk to see what they had to offer. It was sufficient that they had a hot drink machine and I chose a hot chocolate with a blueberry muffin sitting on the staff stool enjoying the warm for a few moments. And then of course a Connoisseur ice cream plus a bottle of ginger beer to send me on my way.
The lady said twenty minutes to the camp. It was a little longer and not without the customary climb to finish the day and then a rapid descent to the very bottom. One often wonders, “”Have I missed the Shelter?” but not today as it emerged with its ever loving welcome. You dream of the Shelter all day and when you arrive it is like reaching Heaven. The pressure of the day disappears. The boots come off. Warm dry clothes are hauled out of the bag first; the stove is fired up with the soup made ready and life is ready to resume its restorative purpose for the next 14-15 hours.
Tea tonight was dehydrated beef, Deb potato, and re-hydrated peas. I made a jelly which went well with the Dark Chocolate Ruth found in IGA for me. A nice coffee bag with Sustagen powder and Splenda preceded teeth cleaning and a light wash.
I am with Peter and Michelle again tonight. They are a lovely quiet couple and quite conversational. They walk along at their own pace as they open up this new zone experience in their life with care and pleasure.
It is six thirty and the long night begins. I will play a few games on my phone in the hope it produces sleep. The rain is still falling. May it mercifully pass by morning?
Thursday 11th May, 2017.
Tonight I am perched in our Shelter at Rame Head which is a hill high and overlooking the Southern Ocean. It is 17.4 kilometres from the last campsite. It overlooks “The Right” the famous surfing spot out in the ocean. Our perch is a magnificent place to be, apart from the mossies, and as I write the sound of the crashing waves is in our ears. In the last hour the full orange moon rose and left, time since Easter has moved on quickly.
Today has finished in the shelter of this space with a quiet breeze replacing the beating rain of the day. It started as a mist and then showered with profundity. Wet outside, wet inside. Most unpleasant. But as the hours moved on it became a necessity to get to camp to enjoy dry clothes and rest. The wind has been generous in drying out my super walking clothes with their wicking and quick drying fabric.
Thankfully it is cooler tonight after several humid nights which made it difficult to sleep in a sleeping bag. The bags are designed for the minus temperatures and so overheat your feet and legs in particular when the temperature is not cold.
Today’s walk started and finished with an uphill. A reasonable uphill to get out of the valley where the Giants camp was located and a massive climb up what is called Conspicuous Head to get to tonight’s hut. Thankfully I had completed a similar climb last Friday and so knew that I could do it and that it would not last forever. It was such a relief to see the green roof of the shelter in the distance. I arrived at about 2.30pm, which was seven and one half hours of walking to cover 18 kilometres, which is getting better.
During the morning I moved out of the forests forever. Suddenly the Tingles and Karris were gone and there were just scruffy bushes and a few big trees. Then there were sandhills and Peppermints and other low shrubs.
I passed through some farmland and passed an owner taking his three dogs for a walk. They were all a bit off beat…one old and out just for the walk, one with only one eye but very affectionate and another collecting two metre sticks for his master.
This was pre coast bushland, undulating and not of great interest. I then struggled up and down the sandhills until reaching the ocean where I used the pagoda to have my lunch: flatbread with a thick plaster of peanut paste, my zip lock bag with a number of stuffed olives and my beloved cherry tomatoes. I have found a good brand of soft dried fruit and am enjoying pears at present.
Then it was off for a short walk on the beach before finding the track into the sandhills. The rain had compacted the soil so walking was much easier. Then up this gargantuan hillside and on until the hut.
Thankfully I had a dry change and the wet dried in the wind.
So here we sit at 7.30 doing everything by headlight. I should sleep well tonight, as it is cooler. The anticipation of a shorter walk tomorrow is encouraging. Sleeping in sheets tomorrow night even better. Good preparation for the biggie on Saturday – sandhills for 23 kilometres. The last of the really big ones although the two following days are as difficult.
Peter and Michelle are still with me but go elsewhere after tomorrow. They have been really good company and it has been most pleasant to have others in the hut.
Friday, 12th May, 2017.
Tonight I am at the Peaceful Bay Chalets in the Backpackers accommodation, which is quite pleasant. Nice double bed, another bedroom, well equipped kitchen, outside loos and showers. This is a very small place. Lots of beach shacks of the old fibro type for people to drift in an out of. The only store is the Caravan Park with limited supplies but they do very good fish and chips.
I got here about 1pm. I thought I would be early as it was only 12 kilometres from the previous campsite. The first part was easy as I walked down a service road. Then the fun began as I climbed up and down sandhills and in and out of little bays. The path had me walking along sandy beaches as well as rocky headlands. Up and down, in and out of beaches. Very demanding. The compensation was that the scenery was spectacular. It was a clear day and the blues and shapes of waves and coastline blended into its own beauty. But it was hard work. A lot of the sand track has very low bushes, which threatens to trip you and reduce your speed. The last stretches included walking on rocks, then granite slides, and finally on soft beach sand which caved in under the weight of the pack. Eventually I arrived at Peaceful Bay. And then had to go more distance to my accommodation. Fairly tired but refreshed by a hot shower and then the magnificent fish and chips of Peaceful Bay so well known on the track.
Tomorrow is another big section including a self-managed canoe trip across the channel. The section is 23 kilometres long so I hope I make it in before dark. Will leave early to try and make sure. The following two sections are also just 20 kilometres some three demanding days ahead. Then it comes back in the last week to more manageable distances. My walking partners, Peter and Michelle have taken some of my stuff into Niece Vanessa in Denmark where I am staying on Monday night. Hopefully that lightens my load a bit. They also gave me some of their surplus food, which was helpful as stocks were limited at the Caravan Park store.
The Eagles have just won in a close match. Being in W.A it was a guaranteed match on TV.
Well will off to bed now, as 4.30 will come soon. Hard to get up but it does give me a good start.
Saturday 13th May 2017.
Today’s 23 k length demanded an early start so I was off and running at 6.15am. The first task was an eight kilometre walk to the edge of the Irwin Inlet. There are two boat sheds each side of the Inlet for Bib walkers. After weaving my way through the bush I arrived to find four canoes on each side, which is the way you want it. I slid one of these chunky plastic tubs into the water with a section at the back for my pack and a seat at the front. I then paddled the 200 metres across the Inlet to the other side where my canoe made five on that side of the Inlet. Having overcome that little anxiety it was then a matter of walking extra distance to the beach over a series of firm sand dunes, which was quite demanding and time consuming. I have discovered in the rhythm of the day that it is not always easy to keep up enthusiasm. Seems that there is an early flourish, which languishes after 10am as the final distance is considered. Keeping going in that time is mentally tough. I made it to the beach about mid-day and had my wrap and relish – the latter a gift from my fellow walkers of previous days. After a short break it was into the afternoon walk. Loaded with lunch and Jelly Beans off I went walking over the beach. Thankfully the distance was not that great as the sand was loose and very hard when carrying a pack.
The afternoon’s task was to walk ten kilometres to the hut. Took me five and a half hours. The track had us off and on the beaches, up cliffs for the views and in and out little coves. All very spectacular but hard and long work. The pristine views in this very isolated spot were magnificent. Varying white beaches, granite outcrops and incredible cliff shapes helping to form widespread beaches or little coves. As it began to get dark I started to think I had missed the sign to my shelter. But then, after climbing another yet massive sand dune hill there was the little green roof well down below. Finally I arrived at Boat Harbour Campsite and plonked down my bag and followed my usual routine. Boots off, wet clothes off, dry clothes on, find the boiler, heat the water and soup, glorious soup. That keeps me going until all else is organized and I can cook my meals. Last night I had my usual for dinner: beef, peas, Deb. And I made a little jelly, which took a while to set, but it was ok. Ruth’s dark chocolate went well with my cup of instant coffee. I do not carry a percolator as some do. Last night I was so tired I was asleep by 8pm so this is being written in the morning before I leave.
I met no one on the track yesterday and was home alone last night.
Today I do not have to cross country to get to the beach. I am nearby. Today I walk along the cliffs to Parry’s beach and then walk the last seven kilometres along the beach. Sounds romantic as long as the beach is hard. If not it is going to be a tricky afternoon.
Sunday 14th May, 2017.
I had hoped for some mercy today but that was not meant to be. I laboured from 7.30am to 6pm to finish the task. The William Bay Campsite is 20.4 kilometres from Boat Harbour. It seemed that every section was hard. I moved around the beaches where I was staying and was then thrust into the hinterland in order to catch glimpses of the magnificent coast or some other special feature. The end result of up and downing the coastal hills was that I covered 9 kilometres in 5 hours. But at last I arrived at Mt Hillier. From here, looking back you could see what an incredible roller coaster you had been on. But from that point it was all downhill or so it seemed. Getting me into the little Caravan Park called Parry Beach. Here I rested and boiled water for soup and a meal. It was just a Caravan Park with a boat ramp, no shop for an Icy Pole!! There were a few Mother’s Day tourists around but I moved on. The next challenge was to walk seven kilometres along Mazzoletti Beach. Soft sand made this extremely difficult but I eventually and thankfully arrived at the exit and put my head torch on for it was now after 5pm. Then I wove my long way up Tower Hill to the William Bay Shelter arriving at 6.30pm. And here I am absolutely wrecked. Hopefully sleep will do the trick again. It is now 5am in the morning and it has been raining overnight which is new for this stint. So it is wet weather gear for today’s sprint into Denmark. We have got it down to 14 kilometres so hopefully it will work. Working from a map only will not be easy, as I do not have a guidebook for this section. Had a great sleep on my mattress and sleeping bag and now to get it into the backpack and off by 7am.
Monday 15th May, 2017.
What a contrast. Here I am sitting in a lovely recliner chair with the T.V in front of me. My Great Niece Charlotte has just served a magnificent pork roast dinner with all the trimmings. We await the prepared desert.
I am at my Niece’s home in Denmark – Vanessa daughter of Michael and Moyra. Her husband is away; he is a FIFO (fly in fly out) working at a distant location.
Nice hot bath and lovely comfortable bed to come makes this stop good company and very warm facilities.
Today’s walk was one of contrasts. It started with a downhill after the uphill of last night. Racing through the Peppermints and over Sand-hills at speed got me to Lights Beach very quickly. Then I rose along a path toward Mount Hallowell, which seemed like a reasonable climbing task. There were two stiles over fences on the way, which was a new experience.
The sign at the beginning of the climb said there was 4.6 kilometres to where I wanted to go. I thought, “That’s ok, half up half down.” How wrong to estimate in that way. The beginning and end were typical climb up the path over pine fronds. Then the hard work began. This magnificent granite has a local centrepiece called Monkey Rock and draws thousands in their climbing and experiential endeavours. But hauling a pack over the environment is a different ball game. It was an unending game of correct foot placement and scrambling to balance yourself and your load through the jagged protrusion popping up at regular intervals. It was as if the mountain had spewed up a whole heap of rubble. And when you thought down was down it was actually up. Let’s live with the local understanding that this is a wonderful resource at their back door.
Finally the pine needles appeared and I was on the outskirts of civilization and not far from my Niece’s home. The nice touch was that it was only 2pm, a little better than my arrival last night after dark.
Vanessa has kindly done my washing and my pack has been reorganized. Food wise I am now topped up for the last five days of this Bib experience. Only 80 kilometres from Albany. Better than 1000, better than 500 which I passed not long ago. The trip to Albany is across sandy cliff tops with the one 7 kilometres venture onto the beach again.
Hopefully the really hard work is complete with the long daily hauls, which will not happen again. The bag is packed for the final sojourn.
Sleep in tomorrow. Whoopee.
Tuesday 16th May, 2017.
Well what a great treat that was yesterday and today. Staying with my Niece Vanessa and her daughter Charlotte was a really great experience. Their hospitality and generosity was overwhelming and it gave me rest and incentive to keep going. And I have this lovely bag of freshly washed and dried clothes in my kit to keep me going – thank you for your kindness, Vanessa.
After that great dinner we chatted until early when sleep took over and despite wanting to talk more it was off to bed. No early alarm was set for me and so I slept for nearly eleven hours. Up and away and soaked off some pain with a lovely hot shower and then spent the next few hours trying to sort out my gear. I had oversupplied with food, had various items including clothes I did not want in my backpack. The result was that Charlotte has a food supply for her next outdoor venture and various red Post Office bags went on to our Albany Motel or back to Mt Waverley.
About 10.30am we joined Charlotte at her work and had a final chat and coffee with her. I will see her again on Friday when she and Vanessa will hopefully take my pack the seven miles along the beach road so I can walk the beach packless.
Then Vanessa and I did a bit of shopping. The red bags went to the Post Office and I got a few last minute things.
Then Vanessa drove me around Wilson Inlet where we met up with the Bibbulmun track on the other side. It was then a 50-minute walk into the Nullaki Campsite on the eastern shore. Saved swimming across the Inlet in floaties for the pack and myself. Bit of a worry as the Bull Sharks come in on the mid day tide!!!
Got to the campsite at 1.30pm, which those of you who have been following know is my dreamtime. It means I have 17 hours rest time before the alarm goes off again in the morning.
I have to keep pinching myself that I got to Denmark. “One step at a time” the lady said back in Kalamunda twelve months ago and look where it gets you. Seventy kilometres to go. Five days to get there. Sounds a little manageable. And the distances are kind:
17 tomorrow then 16.5 then 12.4 then 12.1 then 12.5
The walk in today was not difficult. A little bit of sand and a few small climbs. I am home alone again and the night looks like being cooler. Only a little rain on the way in. Beef and potato and peas again tonight. But then, memories of that great Pork roast last night linger…thank you Charlotte. Go well in your cooking career.
My journey takes me up to the high cliffs, which run along the Southern coast of Western Australia. I can hear the waves from the Southern Ocean crashing not far from me and I will be enjoying the ocean views again for the next five days. This great earth with its reshaped planet after the early formation of Gondwanaland has curiously put us at the end of the earth before Antarctica. It is a strange feeling of isolation and aloneness but at the same time it is home for many people who regard others being in strange places not them. There is something mystical to be creaking and cranking along a coastline, which I knew as an adolescent and spent many hours nearby in fishing holes or picking pink boronia on a Sunday morning or riding my bike to a friends place at Little Grove when others were doing more righteous things.
It was a place of formation and inspiration, which helped to shape who I was. Never to express it like Tim Winton it was nevertheless daunting in its power, overwhelming in its beauty and yet confining in its humanity. Moving away and coming back gives a fresh perspective and I am sure the emotions will run high as I get close to Albany – the place of my adolescence. Like Gondwanaland there has been a reshaping not just in the soil over time but, hopefully in my character as well.
Wednesday 17th May 2017.
Today my goal was to reach the West Cape Howe Campsite, which I was able to do by 3.15pm. The 17ks were traversed mainly in scrubby bush with the isolated outbreaks of Peppermint Clusters, which offer great shade and a beautiful little habitat. After leaving Nullaki it was necessary to climb from the shore side of Wilson’s Inlet to the higher banks of the ocean foreshore. This involved strong climbing and it was great to look back to the Inlet and the further country where I had been last week and east where I lived in the 60’s. Gradually the familiar environment is filling in and my memory has a lot of fondness for what I am now witnessing. The path then waddled, at one time having me near Point Knapp and then swinging back to the inland. Up and down and round about seemingly tunneling my way through close cropped bush sometimes high and some times with just a tripping capacity. Finally I was over the 8 kilometres of hump and roaring down a well-formed track. A naughty motorbike rider passed me – not allowed on the Bib track. Dotted along this part of the track are seats for walkers with a second higher seat to rest your pack on – very thoughtful. Lunch was by the side of the track: flatbread smeared with peanut past, a bag of olives, some dried fruit and several cubes of cheese.
Then I was in the home stretch with a rise of 5ks to the campsite. Thankfully they had designed the path to be gradual rather than immediate climbing and I arrived earlier at West Cape Howe Campsite (17 kilometres), as there were times when it was possible to speed with the gradient.
Tomorrow is the last of the long section but looks similar to today. Before me is the magnificent Southern Ocean crashing on to beautiful white sand or cliff faces like Knapp or West Cape Howe. Truly glorious scenery, one could stay if there were not a goal to all of this.
Thursday 18th May, 2017.
Today was the last of the bigger walks – 16.5 kilometres. It took me 8 hours, to reach Torbay Campsite, which is about par. The track was generous as I was saying previously. The designers have tried to ride the ridges mid point rather than going over the top. The consequence, not always, is a gentle and steady climb up most mounts. Such was the case today. Although there were many hills the effort to get over them was not as demanding as has been on other occasions. Three outside Perth and the Denmark hill were really difficult because they went over the top with all the rubbish – rocks, holes and debris.
We swept inland for a while today and then returned to the magnificent coast. It is accessible at a lot of points by using four-wheel drive vehicles on very sandy tracks. There are also some red gravel roads. So plan to come if you will.
Beautiful white bays and headlands dot the coast as it sweeps south towards Albany. The aquamarine color at a distance gives it a picture perfect look. Met one walker going the other way and have a companion in camp with me tonight which is a rarity. Like Perth, closer to Albany or civilization is likely to bring people out to these nearby Shelters.
The track was ok apart from where people had been trimming the bushes and then left their droppings on the track. I am not sure if they plan a clean up but it slows progress and is downright dangerous to have all this litter on the track.
I caught my first sight of Albany today. I am not far from the town; just have to walk about 36 kilometres to get there. You can see the familiar landforms and the lights at night are apparent. Wind farms also dot the headlands as people take opportunity to make something out of the ever present and strong winds from the southwest.
The little benches along the way have been a godsend. I miss my dead trees and big rocks so the placement of these special benches is terrific and so helpful. They usually overlook an important headland or beach so twice blessed. Tomorrow I walk the beach sand again. Seven kilometres. This lot is a bit more uncertain so I have a special plan to deal with the walking.
Ruth flies over tomorrow, will stay the night in Perth and drive the five hours to Albany on Saturday. We will meet somewhere on Saturday afternoon along the Track. I will not be finished…that I plan to do on Sunday early. It should only be a few kilometres if all goes to plan.
We plan to be at the Albany Cycling Clubs Quizz night on Saturday. It is in aid of Junior Cycling, which is coincidental for that is where the restored cup I returned would be used -Most Improved Junior Cyclist -, each year. I was given the cup in 1958 when I won the Regional Final of the State Schoolboys Championship. I actually won it on my old paperboy clunker. My brother Michael, bless his heart, took me into Malvern Start and bought me something more appropriate. I came 12th in the State Final. It is too dangerous to ride now – so I walk – much safer????
Tonight I am at Torbay Campsite. Torbay (a Bay) is in England – near Torquay. We were there several years ago on a balmy evening. What I did notice was they lost their beach when the tide came in unlike our Torbay. Henry Lyte wrote the Hymn, Abide with me, as he was dying. I believe his house overlooked Torbay- as their bay is called. Always moves me that Hymn, especially when played by the Pipes and Drums.
Friday 19th May 2017.
I am sitting in the Mutton Bird Campsite half way between Denmark and Albany. I reached here, remarkably, at about 1pm today after a quick twelve kilometre transit from the last Shelter.
Last night I had company and what an interesting person he was. He regularly explores off the beaten track around Western Australia researching maps beforehand to ensure water supply but then off he goes on foot. He has covered most of the southern section of the State including the Pilbara and the Fortescue. He has completed the Bib 4 times and knows the quirks of each section and who goes up and down on a regular basis. His present enjoyment is fishing and when I left him this morning he was off with his three collapsible rods and home made lures. He was after herring although he often snags bigger prey – like a metre long fish. Then he has the problem as to what to do with it. I have never heard anybody frying in camp before; it is usually hot water for the dried whatever. He was frying and gave me one of his four herring that he had caught. What a delightful change from the beef!!
Up at 4.30am today and off at sunrise at 7am. Dropped off rubbish at the bin and then down to the Cosy Corner picnic area. There my niece Vanessa and daughter Charlotte met me. This pre-arranged meeting was for them to take and service my backpack for a few hours while I walked the second 7k beach walk. Equipped with the daypack off my backpack and loaded with water, first aid kit and food. I took off on what was meant to be a difficult sandy beach. The first part was quite firm but the second part not. This is the area where surfers congregate as they did today. This means that the sand is churned up by their big 4WD, off roaders or farm trucks. However I managed to get through the process and met the ladies at the other end. Vanessa had bought me a huge chicken roll with the lot. It was magnificent food and a great break from what I was carrying in my backpack. The beach side setting was again, magic. The pathways were brilliant foliaged with leafy matter making your feet bounce as you walked. The picnic area was an immaculate little space being serviced by a garbo when I was there. The white sand beach, the aquamarine calm sea and the occasional wave for the surfers were all there. A fisherman came to try his luck, a novice paddle boarder was out for the first time. And it is only Friday. Lots of people at the beach today.
After resuming my well-serviced backpack I left the ladies and began to climb again. Up to the top of the cliffs with the magic views and onward, slowly, tired by the beach walk. But it was only a short distance and then I could see the green roof down in the valley. The fifty-second Shelter out of 53 suddenly appeared. My last but one home for a night. What fond memories I have of these simple provisions. Tonight it is the Nornalup model. Two and a half sides, peaked roof, stage type decking that sleeps up to 15 and bark chip floor. I have developed a pattern on arrival and for the rest of the time. Boots off, camps shoes on, change out of wetness into blue tights, red distressed jumper and a lovely Kathmandu windbreaker vest. Soon warm enough if cold, soon dry if wet. And then the cup of soup for the warmth and the salt. Today they were needed for the cold front came through as predicted at 3pm. The thunder and hail like sounds on the roof make you glad you made it on time.
So I was out of the rain today and hopefully will be tomorrow.
Twelve kilometres to the next and last Shelter – Sand Patch. I will not be staying but will keep going another 5 kilometres where Ruth will pick me up and take me to Albany for the function I told you about yesterday. Then I will complete the remaining kilometres on Sunday morning.
There have been many rewards along the way. I guess for me the rich and deep privilege of entering into a heritage and a gift that I did not manufacture, the environment around me has been remarkable. Hard to identify which was the best. I guess symbolically moving through the re-growth along the Harvey River bank was special. Knowing that the fires in the previous summer had destroyed this part of the country and the little town of Yarloop was uppermost. But re-growth was occurring in the new shoots on the trees and in the mosses on the ground. And the green was particularly different and beautiful with freshness and a brightness, optimism if you will.
Seeing the Southern Beaches has been a stunning experience. The sheer collision of the white sand, the blue sea and the contrasting waves in shapes and sizes moulded by wind and terrain – incredible. And finally the trees from the Jarrah in the North, Karri in the middle and Tingle, the bizarre beautiful Tingle in the south all so special. And the Peppermint with its lovely groves and beautiful shade and delightful scent.
Then the myriad of other bushes big and small with its blended roughness with little patches of yellow and pink and blue flowers dotting the chaotic collision of it all.
So tomorrow I will wander at pace along the cliff top and head towards Frenchman’s Bay Road. Sometime I will walk over Sydney Harper bridge named in honour of my dear friend and mentor from cycling days. He made me feel good through cycling and by being a man when boys need men. He lost a daughter in a tragic road accident and once turned to me for solace. How remarkable life can turn out.
So the emotions bubble as the end is near. What began on the 24th of April 2016 can now conclude because I learned to walk over distances. That in itself is almost a miracle for me.
So walk with me over these next two days as we bring our little journey to an end. In the past week I have been saying to people: I got to Denmark. I find that still amazing, that one foot after the other it happened. I find it hard to believe. Then I remember the lines of Edgar Albert Guest who said,
He started to sing as he tackled the thing, that couldn’t be done and he did it.
Saturday 20th May, 2017.
Today was a day of lasts. Last time sleeping in one of the Shelters, last day cooking meals for myself, last day following the Bib routine. Although there is some tidying up to finish: like getting to the Albany Railway Station tomorrow and doing the Beedelup to Pemberton link next Wednesday, today it was the bringing to an end this movement through the bush.
Even the snakes came out to say goodbye, I saw the head of one, a Tiger I think, and the tail of another – possibly a Dugite.
Tomorrow is a simple walk into town from seven kilometres from out at a place called Little Grove. A bit of a sleep in and a Motel breakfast then off to resume and finish.
Today was a glorious end. Very cold at Mutton Bird Campsite but I rugged up in my Goretex and took off at 7.15am. I had twelve kilometres to the next Shelter, Sand Patch and then a further five to my connection place at Little Grove. Ruth left Perth – at 9.30am – and we coincided at Little Grove twenty minutes after I arrived.
The walk across the cliffs was stupendous. The rugged coastline continued to provide a great contrast for the colour and movement of the water. Looking forward was anticipatory, looking back was reflective bewilderment that I had covered so much territory. And so I oscillated between the beauty and the distance and wondered. The pathway was well formed and fairly clear. Not many rises. Much had been covered with a rubber matting, some had above ground decking. Speed was enhanced and I covered the 12 kilometres in three hours.
I lunched at the Sand Patch Campsite on the final bits in my food bag, tidied up and then pressed on to meet Ruth. It was downhill which made it pleasant although some parts were on a sandy track, which slowed things a bit. And then I reached Frenchman’s Bay Road and waited a few minutes for Ruth to arrive. It was a nice reunion after five weeks.
After pies and milk drinks at a Servo we found our Motel and got ready for the Cycling Quiz night. This was a good chance to meet with the locals and enjoy the fun of the evening. I had a chance to share some of the research I had done on Cycling in the 1930’s, which associated it with the history of the cup, which I had previously returned. There were only three on our table Ruth, myself and the Secretary of the Cycle Club but we came a creditable seventh.
And so quietly the adventure is coming to an end. Ruth will drive me out to where I finished today. I will walk in tomorrow and she will meet me at the Southern Terminus of the Bibbulmun Track. It will be good to bring to a conclusion that part of the trek.
Sunday 21st May, 2017.
The walk into Albany over the last 7 kilometres was a relatively easy adventure. Albany is based on a lovely Princes Royal Harbour and is flat all around the edges apart from the twin peaks in which the town nestles.
Today’s journey started at Little Grove, a location where several of my friends used to live, one of them, a peer of similar age. Quite often I would ride my bike out to his place and think of how far it was to go. Today I would be walking back in the same distance! It took about an hour and a half as the surface was fairly even, a sealed bike track most of the way, then some clear dirt, then a little diversion into the bush to remind you of where you had been and finally a walk through the streets around a few of the historic sites. Then there is the sign, which reminds you of where you have been. “Southern Terminus”. Good word “Terminus” it is a place of leaving (24.4.16) and a place of conclusion (21.4.17). We will save the official celebration for the Pemberton Hotel on Wednesday night so if you want to join us, feels free to do so.
Such walks deserve a fanfare and I chose for mine, “If I could walk five hundred miles” by the Proclaimers which is a bit of a love song, appropriate in some ways as my cheer squad, Ruth was there to meet me. I played it on my iPhone and found it a little moving. The crowd cheered, well Ruth grinned; there was a lovely embrace and this part was over. Sort of an unreality about walking from Kalamunda to Albany, just over a 1000 kilometres as well as the distances covered in diversions and getting lost. There is a little bit to go on Wednesday when I do the patch back at Pemberton. I had to abort for a day to check up on injuries after a series of falls and knocks to head and arm. We will see if the final 20 kilometres can be done without incident.
We lunched at Middleton Beach now home of the Great Whites and the shark nets with families gathering for a Sunday lunch. The soup was nice as were the wedges, which was a little different to flatbread and peanut paste. Sleep ensured in the afternoon and the recovery process is on.
I guess the one value has been the considerable increase in fitness. Now able to bound over large rocks, straddle fallen trees and climb mountains with a twenty-kilogram backpack it is a nice feeling to have achieved at a late age the fitness I used to know in my younger life.
The pack actually, in a strange way, becomes part of you and you adjust to what you are doing, probably unconsciously, as you increase your stride and pace keeping within the limits of safety. Climbing a huge sand hill last week was achieved with dignity, poise and a little effort. Amazing feeling. I guess I will lose that capacity quickly.
There are a few niggles but generally my body feels in reasonable shape. Something happened to my left hip coming into Walpole two weeks ago and it is a little painful trying to sleep on that side. A number of bites, mossies or ticks or whatever, a blister on my little toe (even though it was protected) a lost big toenail from last year which struggles to regrow, a callus on my walking stick hand, a little loss of weight, some oedema in the hands and feet, and of course many fang marks on my gaiters!!!
And so it is almost over. Thank you for your interest and support during this journey. People walk the Bib each year, not a lot, but it has been nice to be one of them.
Wednesday 24th May 2017.
Today was mop up day. I missed a section after an accident or two necessitated me aborting for that day to recover. The goal was to complete that section between Beedelup and Pemberton over 21 kilometres in length. These distances just roll off the tongue as if easy and normal. They are far from what I would do around the block each day and would see them as an exorbitant ask. But in this context they are a regular requirement.
Rose at six am and got dressed. The next big task was to wake Ruth but she is a good sport and was ready with me at seven to go to the local Bakery for breakfast. Baked beans on toast for me and a muffin for Ruth. I think she came back later after a spell back in bed.
As it was only a day walk, I carried water, food, first aid, snakebite kit and the Locator Beacon in a daypack. A sealed road all the way delivered us near to the Beedelup Hut where the Bib track crossed the road. The first task was to climb a stile as the first part of the walk was shared with the cows. Then over another stile and into the bush.
Surprisingly the track was brilliant most of the way. At the beginning I wandered through a beautiful karri forest on an almost level gradient. We traced a creek on an old log hauling train track and then broke into the forest on a normal narrow Bib track. Being Karri there was the usual deluge of leaf, bark and twigs on the track. Being mindful that being here today was because I was not careful before, every footstep was watched lest I finish face first on the track. Thankfully that did not happen and so my last fall before Anzac Day was my last fall. Quite an achievement although many close shaves.
I rolled on until crossing some main roads some nine kilometres later and then stumbled into this beautiful arboretum planted in the 1930’s. There were trees from many parts of the world holding their own against the Australian trees and yet providing this rich contrast of colour shape and size. A wonderful find, being photographed by some tourists from N.S.W.
The next gift was a human-made lake, which backed for quite a while. Generously the Council had sealed the track around the lake, which again made for easy walking. At a slope in the lakeside they had imported some lovely white sand so that they would have a pleasant swimming beach during the summer.
With the Track well broken up by things of interest time was passing quickly. Inevitably the climb came next as we began our approach to Pemberton. The climb was not arduous and then dropped down to a pathway beside a stream, which took me the last seven kilometres into Pemberton. Passed along the way was the Trout Farm, the Water Treatment plant, the Water study plant and so on.
Finally the track broke out at the bottom end of town meaning a climb up to the Bakery where Ruth was having her lunch. It was wonderful to arrive and I celebrated in my usual way with three spearmint Milk Shakes. Today’s saga took me just over five hours which was a good pace, about 4kph.
So ends the lofty saga of the Bibbulmun Track.
Incomplete Trails, Meaningful Communities. 