Thursday 29th September, 2016
Cobbling some frequent flyer points together enabled me to go back to the Bib to patch up the missed section and do a little more. There will be three sections. Three and a half days will be patching up what I missed last time. Then I will bus it back to Balingup where I finished last time followed by a three-day walk to Donnelly River. A five-day walk will follow this to Pemberton. A bit over 200 kilometres in all.
I will spend a night with my brother Michael and his wife Moyra before coming home on the midnight horror on the 15th. Ruth will not come this time.
If successful I will be over the half way mark and ready to finish it off in one hit next year.
Ruth had me at Tulla at 6.15 and I whizzed through Virgins reception – which does not always happen at Virgin Tulla. A half empty plane gave me space to write a bit and sleep. Got a taxi into Perth train station, booked my bag in at their locker service for the day then wandered around Perth. Had some nice conversation with Katharine in Port Hedland as it was her big 11 – always a remarkable event. Caught the evening train to Harvey and humped the pack to the motel. They had kindly left me a nice meal in the microwave.
Friday 30th September 2016
Next day bought some fresh stuff and then got Ian’s taxi back out to the Bib on the Harvey Quindanning Road. About 45 kilometres out.
When I arrived at the start of the walk to Possum Springs Campsite another female walker had just arrived and we chatted up the hill and missed the first sign – she took off and I got in some three hours later – an 8 k walk. The walk was initially uphill and underneath the Conveyor Belt for the Bauxite mine further out the Harvey Quindanning Road. The rest of the walk wove its way up to Possum Springs.
On arriving at the Campsite I met Mar, a female Calgarian, who is a prodigious walker of the flat plains of W.A to the Himalayas. Great stories. She is walking the Bib this time from north to south, her second end to end. She hopes to be in Albany by the 17th of November. The other lady is walking Dwellingup to Collie about 100 kilometres.
Just on dark Abe Lincoln arrived with his twang and promptly told us he preferred to be on his own and pitched his tent in one of the campsites. And then the rain came down and the floods came up (not really) but there was powerful hail. He had walked 40 kilometres to get there. Double hutted – two huts in the one-day. I later met him in Pemberton.
Saturday 1st October, 2016
On Saturday morning Abe was off early. Shorts, shirt, see through plastic poncho and an umbrella. Then we were all off. Sharon left before me, then me then Speedy “Mar” Gonzales who left me behind very quickly. We had our wet weather gear on and tramped on through storm and sunshine occasionally whipped by hails. The women got in 2-1/2 hours before me. They kindly left a lower bunk space. They prefer to sleep in their tents inside the hut!!
During the day I passed through some spectacular country, which had promised the day before. Again the wildflowers were magnificent in the higher slopes but dwindled at sea level. The walk was long, 18.7 kilometres and I was spitting chips at the end as I have lost a bit of form since my last stint. After coming down from the hills I crossed the river plain surrounding the Harris River, which flows on to form a large dam. Towards the end there was a small area of beautiful everlasting type daisies. Magnificent display and I foolishly said to myself in my tiredness, I will get a shot of them next time!! And they never appeared again. Curses.
Got a bit of internet reception and discovered that the Western Bulldogs had won the A.F.L Premiership. First one since 1954.
Finally arrived at Yourdamung Campsite, which is set in the Lane Poole Special Conservation Zone and is a Proposed National Park. The Jarrah trees are incredible, straight and often large. Huge fallen logs suggest the thinning has taken history away.
The ladies had put up their tents in the Shelter and Sharon had graciously put hers on the mezzanine level leaving me a lower bunk, which is handy midway through the night.
I had the venison and pasta for dinner followed Lint chunky chocolate pieces drink. No fires can be lit at this campsite as part of the preservation process of the area.
Bed came early, at 7pm. It was the tail end of the storms whipping W.A and the hail was falling outside. Consequently it was very cold, but not as cold as in August.
I was up at six as it takes two hours to get away. Cooked my Porridge and additives and methodically packed my bag as I have done on so many occasions before. Off and away at 8.10am. Not far along the track Sharon passed me as I sat on a log and a little while later Mar and Hillary raced past. They arrived together Harris Dam Campsite (14.3 kilometres) at about 12n. I trundled in at 1.30pm.
The journey took us through Lane Poole south but the wildflowers were few and far between. However the stands of jarrah and other species made the journey memorable. A few little creeks are crossed on an assortment of “bridges” some just stumps in the water. A few challenging hills but manageable especially after I had my nibbles and a prostrate rest on my groundsheet waiting for Joe to wriggle across my tummy. Up an old railway cutting and on to Harris Dam Campsite. A neat little shelter and I will see the dam water tomorrow as I head south to Collie. Today’s journey was just 14 kilometres so there was a good opportunity to have lunch and a nap. It also means a sixteen-hour rest time, which will help in a speedy journey tomorrow. The Bib Track crosses outside of town so I will probably call a taxi from there so I am looking at a 15k walk.
No walkers going north and none have joined us from the south. Mar refuses to stay here, as she believes Bogans from Collie may invade us. So she walks into the Dam with her pack where she will be picked up and taken to Mumbies a B + B south of Collie. She will be back to walk the next section tomorrow without pack. Sharon has a book to occupy her time. I am happy resting and chatting with Ruth as the black dot reappears telling me I have coverage.
I will stay in Collie tomorrow night which will give a chance to do some washing and rest. A bus trip to Bunbury and then a linking bus to Balingup will have me on the new piece of territory on Wednesday morning. Inching towards Albany.
PS.
Lamb, mint, peas and mashed potato for tea – using the best rehydration methods of course.
Monday 3rd October, 2016
This is a point of transition. I am sitting at the Bunbury transit station waiting for my TransWA Bus (WA Rail service) to Balingup. I have come in from Collie where I spent last night.
Yesterday I left the Harris Dam Campsite and walked over to the beautiful Dam area and then on south to the Coalfields Highway (16.3 kilometres). My walking friend had shot off earlier and I eventually caught up with her in Collie and again on the bus in to Bunbury today. The other lady, Mar, suddenly turned up having spent the night off the track but wanting to fill in the last bit to Collie. She zoomed off like a mountain goat. She tells me walking is her life and she spends much time at the gym and walking in preparation.
The country varied from the reddish orange pebbles (I think it is bauxite) to the sandy plain. The jarrah is now behind me as the forests began to break into Sheoak and other species. The Sheoak drops its long thin fronds, which make a lovely soft surface to walk on. Saw some red chested wrens but not much else. I must be too noisy for the animal life. It may also have been the weather as it started misty and ended up full strength rain. This caught me off guard as I had put on my rain jacket but not my over pants. However the designer walking gear is brilliant, gets wet easily dries out very quickly.
Being school holidays some kids decided to make a nuisance of themselves on the track with their trail bikes, which of course are banned on the track. Apart from the damage they do on the track it is threatening to the walkers particularly as many of them belong to the “not so fragile” class, a little younger than myself. Might address it with the local Police and the Shire when I get back. One of the ladies I was traveling with would not stay in the last Hut before Collie fearing what she called the “Yobs”. Being an international walking trail it is not good if some foolish adolescents spoil it.
The Bib trail links up over the Coalfields Highway out of town and as I had made the link last time it gave me good reason to hike the six kilometres into Collie by Taxi. So it was a relatively short 15 kilometres walk yesterday which I managed to accomplish in a bit over five hours. This means I am picking up speed now averaging over 3 kilometres an hour.
It was nice, to put it mildly, to shed my four day walking skin in the shower and shave off my mini Bartel (beard). Then went shopping to top up my fresh food supply for the next week and get a few more carbs.
Tuesday 4th of October, 2016
Arrived at Balingup on Tuesday and made my way to the Air B&B at the Post Office Residence. As I got off the bus I met Steve, a Jewish man from Perth walking end to end on the Bib. We shall be sharing the journey to Pemberton together.
Another guy noticed my pack and told me he had walked the Bib twice and that I should be prepared for the hill going out of Balingup and the one leading to the next hut called Blackwood. I went to the local shops and got food for tea after having a late lunch and afternoon tea at our favourite Bakehouse Coffee shop.
I was alone in the house and I used the time finishing my laundry and packing my gear.
Wednesday the 5th of October, 2016
A 17.4 kilometres walk today so I was away early and up the dreaded hill. Before that there is a short journey through the local arboretum, which was of great value. The hill out was difficult but after that the track swung into a plateau, which gave a magnificent view over the Blackwood valley full of farms. The Bib track shared its journey with another walk called the Greenbushes loop. I pressed on after Steve passed me and was later resting by a creek when two guys and a woman, the wife of one of the men stopped. They too became part of the journey; they will terminate at Donnelly River. I trailed both Steve and the party as together we lumbered up near farmland and then up the dreaded hill. It rose slowly to about 400 metres in a series of lifts through farming paddocks, a pine plantation and long grass with croaking frogs and who knows what else. The Blackwood Campsite hut could be seen in the distance, getting there was something else The Shelter was on a highly elevated plateau with no trees surrounding. The view down the valley was special overlooking several farms but also a largely denuded area, which had been harvested for pine logs.
The wind howled all night and it was quite chilly in the hut and occasionally small bits of rain would blow in. There was company tonight – my four fellow travellers and a guy going north. I got annoyed by the blowhard approach of some of the walkers as it inhibited conversation about other things and affected your own judgement about your own walking style.
Thursday the 6th of October, 2016
In the morning we all busied to leave and finally descended on the opposite side of the hill called “Cardiac Hill”, a real severe, slippery slope. Must be tough when coming from the other direction.
We followed the Blackwood River bolstered by the rain now falling. The rest of the day was mushy, along the river and then over a steep hill, down through the wooded countryside finally weaving our way to this little hut by the creek.
It was an unpleasant day. The hills continued to be hard and it rained all day. The close bushes in the small arcade of trees we had to pass through at times dumped their wetness on us as well. And larger trees were beginning to fall, blocking the track.
The one redeeming feature is that we passed into Karri country today. A beautiful picnic area set the scene for what is to follow.
I arrived at Gregory Brook (18 kilometres from Blackwood) several hours after the others. Couldn’t get my act together today. Probably a little weary from yesterday. Tomorrow we head for Donnelly River to pick up food parcels and hopefully dry out some clothes.
Then Saturday to Wednesday is the saga across to Pemberton.
Friday 7th of October, 2016
But the rains persistence has created difficulties if not dangers for health as I, and other walkers were persistently wet. Began to get concerned about health effects of being continually wet and cold inside and outside. Also the persistent rain created the “weight of water” meaning that wet branches hung over the track giving you a douse on passing. Wet soil and heavy branches also means that many little bushes and some big trees are now across the track. The root systems had loosened from their very wet holding soil. The small and large trees across the track have currently changed the walk into a difficult obstacle trek. This is likely to be so on the next section as well. It created a long day yesterday and I think it is time for another rethink. My walking mate Steve was very kind looking after my interests and making sure that I was ok. The other three took off and I did not see them again.
The track reminded me that calculating distance is important. I thought I was nearly there and met some runners who told me I had five kilometres to go and that it was all downhill. That was not true, the downhill bit. Five kilometres was a bit discouraging as that is two hours walking for me.
My ears were overcrowded with advice of other walkers, which does not always apply to a 73-year-old rookie walker. Answer is to set my own goals and my own way of achieving those ends. There are times when I really enjoy the company of others but I also enjoy the solitude of the walk.
But I eventually reached Donnelly River Village, which is an old logging town but is now a Timeshare village. We were at the end of the school holidays so there were lots of kids around.
The Bib people use the old school classrooms as dormitories and the staff room as a kitchen and it also has a shower.
That helped to refresh and a few goodies from the Village Store offered a little variety to life. Reaching Donnelly River represent the half way mark. About almost 500 kilometres since April 24th. So I called it quits for now.
It has been a truly amazing experience in an amazing part of the world. Began to walk among the king Karris yesterday – what an incredible rich and rare experience.
Saturday 8th of October, 2016
So here at Manjimup I noticed the LIONS were having their state convention at the local town hall. I drifted around and found my good friends Letitia and Ambrose Depiazzi, delegates at the conference. I sat with them while they had their lunch and caught up with the family dramas, which are not insignificant. A pleasant surprise and made my deviation even more worthwhile.
Spent a bit of time with the older lady running the Visitor’s Centre on this Saturday. She is a migrant from England who married a local farmer, who died some time ago. She is now part of the community with family the farm and the community making England a far distant memory.
I will catch the bus to Pemberton today and rest earlier than intended at the Motel. I will pick up a parcel on Monday and work out what to do. Over to Michael and Moyra for Thursday/Friday and home Friday night.
Incomplete Trails, Meaningful Communities. 