Saturday 6th April, 2019
Portland to Cubby’s – 20 kms
The Great South West Walk (GSWW) is a 250 kilometre walk out of Portland Victoria and runs inland north west from Portland out to Nelson near the South Australian border. It then winds back along the coast to Portland. It was developed in 1983 and is ably supported by descendants of those who founded the walk. It is well supported by Parks Victoria and a local maintenance crew who volunteer their services to the Walk.
I came down yesterday by train to Warrnambool and then bus to Portland arriving about 6.30pm. I was met by Gordon one of the Walk liaison people. He then took me around to the motel. I also gave him a food parcel to be dropped by him to me on Tuesday. He will then pick me up on Friday and bring me back to Portland. I dined at the local pub and slept well at one of the motels.
I was up and off by 8.30am from the Information Centre and began a series of climbs in town and out of town to get above sea level and into the higher country. Higher means 50 metres although the rolling hills made it mildly painful.
I walked at a fast pace through the residences lining the bay. Then descended to the shore line where I met a Track mowing team keeping the track clear and clean. Then I descended to two caravan parks having a Coke break at the last van villages. There is a bit of a protest going on – they want to develop an abalone farm out to sea and process it in a property on the street I walked along. The locals don’t want it there so there are anti placards on a number of houses. Six of the twenty ks for the day had now passed and I then cut inland to get into the bushy start of the Walk.
Up through cow paddocks, across main road, climbing two stiles and finally I hit the bush. At first it was a lovely pine forest with pine needles beneath my feet. I passed the Bolwarra Primary School and local community hall where I had lunch. Then I had a winding rough scrubby track before I moved out onto the road next to the railway line. This gave a smooth passage but was very undulating and heavily potholed with some water in the pot holes from recent showers. There were lots of little farms nearby. The track then cuts beneath the transmission lines (delivering power to the alumina plant in Portland) and breaks into a series of short rolling hills. At long last, after a short time on a gravel road, I branched off up the hill to the Cubby’s Campsite. It has a small shelter and table, another outside table, a fire pit, a water tank for drinking and one water tank beside the pit toilet.
A girl and her dog wandered by and then left and since I have been on my own. Good because I can pitch my tent in the small shelter.
The journey of 20.6 kilometres took about seven hours which is not a bad pace for me.
It is now 6.45 and I am ready for bed. Tea is done with and cleaned up, teeth cleaned as are a few other things. Very still tonight, I hope it stays that way. Rain is coming on Monday.
Tomorrow is a 15 km walk to Cut Out Camp through fairly isolated forest country.
Thanks for your interest folks. Congratulations to those who have mastered the Spot App Tracker with the need of a shortcut. Have fun following even when I walk on water!!!
Sunday 7th April, 2019
Cubby’s to Cut Out – 15 kms
Today we really enter into the promised forest territory. The Messmate is prolific despite logging in the past. The closeness to Portland means that this area is used by recreational horse-riders and bike enthusiasts. The track crosses roads and other tracks and is easy walking. It is also possible to “chunk down” the process by using the map, which offers road crossings and many other markers to aim for and recognize. The track finally leads to a deep ravine through which a creek flows. The track people have constructed a bridge over the creek which is a thoughtful contribution making the final piece of the walk much easier. A rising path slowly lead to Cut-Out campsite which is in a stand of large trees and is a beautiful setting. After unpacking I raise my tent and a Ranger arrives and tells me I cannot camp in the shelter. I tell him I am the only one here to which he says: “I haven’t got an answer for that!” He also insists I take care in using the tank water despite acknowledging that he uses tank water at home. So I boil up water, which leaves a smoky taste and is unpleasant to drink.
I put my tent under the shelter, just as well as it poured down that night and the camping area was under water in the morning. I cooked my evening meal and retired fairly early. The walk is taking shape but tomorrow will be harder as it involves double hutting over 22 kilometres.
Monday 8th April, 2019
Cut Out to Cobbobooneee to Fitzroy – 9.4 12.5
The rain had been quite heavy overnight and I was glad I had defied convention and pitched my tent under the shelter. Not much room inside but at least I wasn’t floating away. The rain continued into the early am and my rain jacked came in handy.
Today the plan was to double hut. I would traverse the 10.4 kms to Cobboboonie Hut, have lunch then aim to be at Fitzroy River camp for the night, a further 12.5 kms. I arrived at the latter camp about 3.30pm having left at 7.20am from Cut Out Camp. So it was a fair day of trudging through varying countryside.
The quietness was again obvious in the first section but then I hit the swamps and things changed. Their were kangaroos around, the birds were loud and the vegetation lush up to the edge and over the top of the path. There were signs that this part of the track had been recently mown. A beautiful little paradise avenue, well kept by arduous volunteers on a heavy duty mover over distance. Small palms, with water grasses stalky greens and a myriad of other delights. The messmates continued to tower over the path and occasionally a pine like tree would display its beauty and drop its frond.
Shortly afterwards the track takes you into Cobboboonee Campsite. Here I lunched for the day in a beautiful campsite. It was within a stand of huge trees giving a wonderful aspect and experience.
The track varies depending on the incline and the decline. Sometimes it is sharp, but not often and generally it is a series of gentle rises and falls. A simple gradient for the puffing trains once pulling messmate logs. Still worried about tripping as the eucalypts drop a lot of rubbish, which is threatening.
The final part of the walk today is to descend down towards the Fitzroy River. The Camp sits back from the river on a bank and again is nicely positioned in a grove of trees. They provide sticks and branches for the fire, which is good company and the provision of warmth and drying. Again I position my tent under the shelter and I am the only one present. The rain comes and goes but is not as heavy as last night.
I am not sure when this will get to you as well as future additions. Mobile coverage began to dwindle today and may go blank for the rest of the journey.
I had to delete John Lawton’s name from my list. John, my cousin, died last week and his funeral is on Friday. It was one of those sudden cancer events. He was a dear friend to us on our many visits to England and we shall miss his charm. He took a great interest in my walks, reading my reports and following the journeys on maps we shared. I will miss him greatly.
Tuesday 9th April, 2019
Fitzroy to Moleside – 22 kms
Tonight I am resting at Moleside Campsite high on the bank of the magnificent Glenelg River. It is a wide stretch of water, one of many on this river. Over the next few days I will follow the course of the Glenelg down to Nelson where it enters the sea.
Today my walk was 22 kilometres long from the Fitzroy River Camp, although not as much water in the Fitzroy as with the Glenelg. The walk was very flat for the first 15 kilometres allowing speed but followed by a mini crash as energy had been spent in the morning. I rested on a bridge over a creek and was surrounded by hills bearing huge trees. It was a magnificent sight and wrapped me in nature’s magnificence for a while. I rose out of the gully and flattened my walk across a plain to the road connecting to my next campsite. ..
Along the way I continued to enjoy the Cobboboonie National Park with its wide variety of vegetation and low land falls. Today there were flat plains and sweeping valleys of tall messmate dwarfing ferns and small shrubs. It rained frequently in the morning and brought out the animal life. Big eastern grey kangaroos abounded at a distance as did smaller wallabies. A huge emu tried to share my path and bounded off in front of me. I caught a glimpse of a koala and some black cockatoos. Some rain caught me out and a jacket was needed for a short time.
Before I reached the final stretch I circled through the bush and then over the last of the hills. The walk rose for a while on the edge of the Kentbruck range. It then brought me to a small roadside black lake has been called the Ink Pot because its blackish tannins give a unique geographical feature. The last six kms were painstaking as he day dragged on. I took frequent rests, wondering “are we there yet”. Part of the walk along Moleside Creek was with a plod along the final piece with tired feet To arrive was a reward. The rain was persistent and a nuisance. On of off with rain protection jacket. Even a sprinkle tonight. I hope that is the end of it.
No company at the camp so I have moved my tent into the little shelter to keep me dry.
My resupply team arrived with my Food Drop for the next three days. Gordon is one of the Track Committee stalwarts and is a great source of information and advice. He tells me that they mow the track on a regular basis. Hence its neat appearance and its comfortable surface. No rocks and roots allowed. Apparently they want people to walk side by side as often as possible. Gordon convinced me to use the water from the tanks.
So tomorrow it is down to the river bank and following the river through to Nelson.
The view is magnificent over the wide spread of the Glenelg River. To think that the Track people own this incredible piece of real estate!
Wednesday 10th April, 2019
Moleside to Batterbys – 17 kms
Well I was wrong about telephone reception yesterday. As I clambered one of a number of riverside cliffs it was apparently enough to make connection with the network. Whether it continues tomorrow will be seen.
Yesterday my food supply was dropped by Gordon, one of the Walk’s Angels. Among the tasks that he does for the walk apart from dropping food and picking up walkers he also mows the track. I thought the track was partially old log hauling railway track but no. The track has been created from scratch and in many places is mowed annually and Gordon is part of that effort 250 kilometres of walking track to be maintained. He also put me right about the water telling me to drink directly from the tanks. He claims everyone around drinks tank water and that the town supply in Portland is undrinkable.
Last night I rested high above the Glenelg river. The kangaroos feasted on the grass in front of the shelter as they did again tonight. The magnificent view of last night was repeated throughout today as I walked the 19 kms to the next shelter – called Batterby.
The walk was full of rises and falls and took a while to get used to the varying pace but it came. Nevertheless it was a long day, eight hours to cover the distance. The scenery up and down the river was magnificent with huge tidal affected waters filling the view. Occasional it has landings and boat ramps for boats and paddlers. I met Year 9’s from King David School in Armadale and another family holidaying on the water. Tonight there are two sets of campers nearby. Obviously this area is a hidden gem.
Meant to tell you about the mushrooms. They abound as a result of recent rains. The minuscule and the monsters. Tempted to be tasty but my lack of fungus discrimination makes me wary. The bird and animal life continue to proliferate: kookaburras, little finches, black cockatoo and even a black kangaroo. The river draws even more and I expect to be awoken by the birds in the morning.
So far I have trudged 98 kms, tomorrow another 13 and Friday 20. = 131 in all. Part 2 will come along the coast in May as a series of day walks with Ruth’s help.
Thursday 11th April, 2019
Battersbys to Patterson – 13 kms
I arrived at Patterson Camp at 12.30pm having left my previous abode around 7.30am. It was a relatively easy walk, some through bush and long stretches on roads or tracks. This speeded up my walking time and I maintained by good average of 3kph.
I continued to follow the Glenelg River today and like yesterday it was populated by visiting people. Yesterday is was the Year 9s and leaders in their canoes and a family of five on holidays. Today it was fishermen as there are a number of boat ramps along the river. Their substantial boats putt putted along governed by a myriad of water safety conditions including speed restrictions. But they were fishing. Given this a tidal river it means that big fish abound. The mulloway being one which I guess would be a treasure to catch, as it can be a largish take.
I stopped at Sapling Creek landing and boat ramp and cooked some deb potato for morning tea. Went well with my Greek Keffa Cheese and specially prepared cakes made out of nut meal, eggs, sultanas and mango strips.
Back on the track I encountered two cars with learner drivers using the back roads to get up their ticks and avoid damage. And so on to Patterson, which was a welcome relief from late arrivals.
I have lit the fire pit and tidied up around the pit. Two big logs feed its flames and should be comfort and company for the night as there are no humans for the sixth night. In fact, it seems I am the only one on the track going either way.
Little bouncing birdies, twits keep searching the campsite for food. Rounded like a golf ball with two long tail feathers – sometimes blue they bound around fearlessly looking for a morsel. The Roos are fewer than last night and sort of friendly. Did I tell you I saw a black kangaroo two nights ago just before entering Battersby campsite.
Again I have a splendid water based campsite. This one has high white cliffs on the opposite side and white cliffs a little downstream on the other. The river is about sixty metres across so there is a significant pond in front of me. Makes a splendid shot when filled with canoes. I had toyed with the idea of a quick jump in at a nearby canoe jetty but considered it to risky on my own. So there is the quiet whistling of the wind in the leaves, a few chirps in the background the flutter of my midget twits (another name??) and the occasional thump of the Roos tail. I believe there is a resident possum who owns this shelter and tries his hardest to get into your food bag. He leaves his traces on the inside table.
The calm of autumn has replaced the rain from earlier in the week. I have no idea about tomorrow. I did not get the weather prediction before I lost coverage. Now the weather app is no longer giving information on my phone.
Tomorrow is 17 kms to the next hut, Simpsons, and another 3 kms to Nelson. I am aiming for Nelson as my chariot will arrive at 4.30pm to take me back to Portland for the night before bussing back to Melbourne on Saturday. I have walked 111 kms since last Saturday – 30 to go. Then the spearmint milkshake reward, or even two or three.
Friday 12th April, 2019
Patterson to Nelson – 20 kms
This message is being recorded and transcribed into words by my phone. I am alone on the banks of the Glenelg river at Nelson which is the end point of this part of my travels around the Great South West Walk. Part two of the walk will be from Nelson to Portland along the beach or the beaches.
I had a rather disturbed night last night firstly due to a possum. His reputation has preceded him in the extensive notes that had been left by former walkers in the Walkers Journal at the campsite. He arrived after lights out and proceeded to go through everything that I had left around. Having been warned I stored my food in my tent but he was still sniffing for some food on the table. I left some empty plastic bags that gave him some interest. Eventually he gave me away as a lost cause and went off foraging somewhere else.
Then at about 4am a boat chugged up the river went past my camp then stopped and begin pile-driving or some loud activity. The echo went up and down the river from that time and for the rest of the early morning. So at about 4:45 I gave up and got up and started to prepare for the day. I had 20 km to cover in something like 11 hours so wasn’t quite a challenge that it been in previous days. Off I went with some of the track going through the bush and then took me out onto a limestone road. The road had been graded from Limestone Rock embedded into the soil which makes for walking hard on your feet.
As I wandered along I missed the sign taking me off the road and back into the bush track along the river. The simple remedy was to keep following the road until it linked up with the track again. But I must have missed something else as the road and I found myself on the road back to Nelson. It meant I missed the final loop along the river, about 10 kms of walking. Also a tiny bit of the track is in South Australia and I missed that experience. I may pick that up in the future. When I got to Nelson I backtracked along 3 kms of the walk to get back to the last Hut to sign in in case the Rangers wondered where I got to and sent out a search party. I then walked all the way back to Nelson another 3 km. I headed straight for the Nelson Kiosk a famous eating environment. Here I had my celebratory milkshakes though sadly they were not spearmint.
I was now early for my pick up coming at 4:30 so I’ve been able to clean up my wounds and made my pack a bit more orderly and generally relaxed a bit. I also chatted with the lady at the Information Centre. My Chaffeur, Gordon’s wife Kathy turned up about 5pm and had me back at the Motel by 6.30pm. After a clean up I had dinner at the Pub nearby. Packed my bag and off to sleep. Bus leaves early in the morning for Melbourne.
So that part of the GSWW is over. It has been pleasant walking and there have been some beautiful parts of this environment of which I was unaware. The Cobboboonie State Park is full of all sorts of wonders in particular of trees and shrubs and plants various vegetation and wildlife. Since Tuesday I’ve been following the Glenelg River, and an amazing discovery that has been. This great experience of water flowing in the Victoria’s far west is a paradise. Apart from the natural beauty the flow of seawater upstream means that the types of fish become more numerous particularly the Mulloway a sought-after ocean fish.
I find it interesting that having walked all that distance I have been on my own. No one coming toward me, no one passing me going the other way. What a strange experience something I’ve not experienced before. It is unusual because in other situations you generally have people around each day to talk with – a walking community with shared experiences.
Figuring this walk I felt a bit spooked and isolated and concerned. This is something that I haven’t experienced on other walks.
So I leave the magnificent Cobboboonie. State Forest and then the lovely Glenelg River and the beautiful stands of trees and shrubs and swampy vegetation I leave behind the various animal life that I’ve seen. Many kangaroos and wallabies and a myriad of the birds.
Thanks to those of you who have had the time in the patience to read through these musings. I trust that they have been interesting. It has certainly been good to record them for my own sake and be able to share them with you so I’ll leave them with you for now.
Hopefully in May Ruth will come with me to Nelson and I’ll do day walks on the beach side part of the walk which goes from Nelson Bay to Portland.
Wednesday 13th May, 2019
Monibeong to Nelson – 20 kms.
GREAT SOUTH WEST WALK HITS THE COAST.
On Monday we drove down to Nelson near the South Australian Border to prepare for the four days of walking. We paused along the way for coffee and breaks and finally got into Nelson about 7pm. We booked into The Deck, a self catering cottage overlooking the Glenelg River. A lovely restful place with all facilities in place.
On the way we checked out a few turnoffs that we would need over the next few days to deposit and collect Peter at the end of each days walks. Having completed the inland section of the walk in April it was now time to work towards the coastal challenges.
Up early on Tuesday and finally in place at Lake Monibeong back towards Portland. The idea was for Peter to walk back to Nelson rather than reverse making access for Ruth easier. While Ruth returned to Nelson for coffee and a nap Peter took off. The section from the Lake back to Nelson is 23 kms but with a lift from the beach back to Nelson it came down to 20 kms.
The first task was to tackle the huge sandhill to the beach. Up and over steps and dunes until the beach was reached. Then the long slug began. There were not many landmarks along the beach to give clues to distance apart from a few cliffs and side-tracks which matched the map. By breaking up the journey into achievable goals on the beach it was possible to roughly time each kilometre and feel some sense of achievement.
The rain came and went early so it was possible to walk freely in shorts and shirt with a cool breeze to evaporate some of the perspiration. The gulls and other little birds were around looking for morsels in the waves but no other life was around.
The great challenge was to walk just above the last wave line where the sand is at its firmest. From time to time one was blissfully unaware of the incoming wave until it was a race up the beach to dodge the wet. Sometimes I was not quick enough although the boots provide good protection if you keep the moisture below ankle level.
Walking on sand is very tiring. Beaches are not flat, they undulate into little coves into which you descend and climb out of. Neither are they firm and you have to pick your path at risk. Nor is your path straight as it involves constantly moving to the best position. I missed the soft ferny paths that exist along the river-banks.
Consequently my feet and body were asked things different to the usual walking pattern. My ankle-bones got very sore and my whole body drooped with extreme exhaustion by the end.
The sea was turbulent and varied. At times it was clear and white water flowed onto white sand. At other times the kelp coloured the water and produced a khaki froth and foam. The gulls were a constant companions as were other unrecognizable plumage. At one stage I was near a flock of midgets. At first I thought they were crabs on the edge of the waves but then realised they were midget, really midget birds congregating for some purpose at this particular place.
I had the regular stops for food and rest and occasionally took my blood sugar levels as my endocrinologist is curious how my blood sugars functioned under this pressure. Actually they stayed very low on both days which is not unusual given the effort needed to achieve the goal.
The track takes you off the beach on several occasions. First to circuit you around Lake Monibeong and its flora-fauna treats. Then it breaks inland to avoid swimming around some rocky headlands. Entrance to the latter was difficult due to the erosion of the shoreline which left the track entrance ten feet above the waterline. So a climb was necessary up a sandy cliff face to get to the track which took some doing.
The journey inland was a small excursion from the monotony of sand walking. It crossed the rocky headlands and then took you through sandhills and over the firmer sandy paths. Finally after about three outcrops pressing into the sea the path returned you to the beach to resume the plod.
Some mobile reception allowed distance to be measured other than in time by the Suunto watch – which is very accurate. The Spot Tracker, while not producing little feet for some reason, accurately put you on the map at the exact location which in the early part of the journey is a little discouraging but as the day progressed it gave some hope that the goal would be achieved in the given time. The other help was Google Maps which occasionally has the GSW track popping up, another clear indication of how you are going.
Finally I drew near to my goal only to be disheartened by the absence of an arrow pointing off the beach. A likely exit appeared and a lady with a dog told me that was where to go. So, up and over for about 600 metres and there was the Pearl Subaru with the welcoming Ruth waiting.
Boots and gaiters are always off first to give some relief to feet at least. The drive back to Nelson was swift and straight to the Kiosk, the outlet for mail, food, household goods, fishing gear. Minimum supplies in maximum variety. Best of all they made milkshakes, which was the start of replenishment recovery.
Back to The Deck for a rather fragile hot shower, a change of clothes and then a collapse on the floor supported by pillows and sleep. Not long after tea was the need for bed as another day on the beach awaited.
Wednesday 15th April, 2019
Swan Lake to Monibeong – 16.5 kms
DAY TWO –GREAT SOUTH WEST WALK COASTAL SECTION
The walking backwards plan is being used to help Ruth negotiate her way to and from drop off Car parks. It worked yesterday as we got to the Monibeong Car park which today will be the pick up point for end of the second walk.
Up at 7am and preparations complete we made the departure point at Swan Lake a bit further back towards Portland. The plan was to walk back to Lake Monibeong a distance of 16.5 kilometres – and it turned out fairly accurate.
We negotiated another road into the beachside over a shorter distance than yesterday. We came to an abrupt end on the limestone road as the track to the sea from the car park was made for dune buggies. Unloading my day-pack I said good bye to Ruth with a revised completion estimate of about 5 hours of walking. She would meet me where I started yesterday at Lake Monibeong.
I plodded up and over the sand dunes for about a kilometre to the beach. As I rose up one hill I caught a glimpse of Ruth ascending a hill in the distance and it was assuring to know she was on her way out. Finally I hit the beach with the roar of the sea. Today would be much the same as yesterday: painful ankles and hard work on the sand, dodging waves unsuccessfully at times, working my way towards the goal. The coastline was uninterrupted today which meant there were no rocky outcrops to break the pattern and no inland walks until the end.
It was just a steady plod for 16.5 kilometres.
Again I broke up the journey with goal setting of objects in the distance. I paced myself at time to try and achieve 3 kilometre per hour goal and then take a break. With break and goal I slowly worked through the time with some effort. It meant lifting the pace to 5 kph to get in a break and keep up the pace at the same time.
Food is fruit and carbohydrate – today in the form of a day old croissant. I use Greek cheese from the local deli at Mt Waverley, which provides the bulk of my protein replacement. Spread together with a bit of butter and vegemite. I keep a Muesli bar in reserve as well as a Mars Bar and Jelly Beans for hypo emergency. Talking of which I tested my sugars again today – they kept low during the day again.
The day varies. At times it is monotonous and takes ages to get from here to there. Then there are times when one locks into reverie and time passes very quickly. Then there are the deliberative moments of intentional goal setting trying to achieve whatever. I have found it good to achieve a good chunk of time and distance early it takes the pressure off .
The rest of the day is filling your mind with the silence of my own thoughts. The roar of the sea, the squawk of the birds, the quiet whisper of wind on sand are noticed from time to time but mostly it is about being alone in the presence of a magnificence which we did not create but can only allow its beauty to wash over us and bring its own therapy.
It was good when the Spot App told me I was near the end and today there was a GSWW post high above the beach pointing inland. Up and over sand hills and through rough vegetation for that kilometre to the campsite provided for walkers. From a rise I caught a glimpse of Ruth doing donuts and burnouts in the car park as she awaited my arrival.
First task, boots and gaiters off. It had been a hard day on the ankle bones again but no blisters. Must be the type of walking required on beach sand, which puts its own peculiar pressure on that part of the foot.
Then off into Nelson and to the Kiosk for the milkshake, Latte, chips, ice cream all suitable rewards for a hard day.
Tomorrow I go back around the river to “patch” what I missed on the last part of the inland journey. It is about 10 kms so will be a nice change. We reconnoitred the meeting point today – it is about 5 kms from Nelson for Ruth to drive.
We are out of The Deck at 11 and all being well will get to the Blue Lake in Mt Gambier not far away before going back to Portland for the last two days.
Thursday 16th May, 2019
Backtracking from Nelson to North Nelson Road turnoff – 15 kms.
WALKING THE GREAT SOUTH WEST WALK – SECOND EFFORT – DAY THREE.
Today was a beautiful day for walking. Backtracking along the river was a welcome change from the pounding surf. I was up early in the hope of a quick start. For various reasons my plan fell apart. As my lawyer friend once said, “When thing start to go wrong they often keep going that way”. It took an hour out of my walking time and had a finish a bit later than expected. Ten kilometres turned into fifteen, good exercise but poor planning.
The river was calm and the sun clear bringing tranquility to the water. Bends and long stretches of water were picturesque. The banks dotted with boat sheds leased on public land. Boats only in Victoria but sleeping is allowed in boat sheds when the river briefly swings into South Australia. Bird life is not prolific but the Roos constantly make their presence felt as they bound away. A massive eastern grey came toward me and I resiled quickly. Maybe he thought I had food. When we were driving up North Nelson Road at dusk last night the Roos and Wallabies were out in force, slowly we avoided collisions. Yesterday it was the Emus parading around our walk approaches. Massive creatures with cow sized patties.
Today I had to put the foot down especially when the track was on a back-road. Consequently the 15kms was completed in 4 hours – a pretty fast pace for me. Ruth was there to meet me again. So it was farewell to the Glenelg River hidden treasure of South West Victoria.
We returned to our lovely accommodation and quickly cleaned up and said farewell. Lunch was a snack at The Kiosk and then we were off to Mt Gambier. We found the Blue Lake blue in the photos. Maccas gave us post lunch coffee. Then we shopped for more support tape for weak joints then headed back to Nelson and on to Portland. We reconnoitered tomorrow’s drop off and pickup and finally got to our new motel digs at about five. Tonight was a nice pub meal of middle-eastern lamb.
My Spot Tracker is still giving me grief. I will check the settings to see if I can get it right.
A word about Pippies. Cockles in West Australia. Little shelled clams which you dig us out of the surf edge by wriggling your feet and filling your bucket. They are prolific in the South West and in other places. Middens, piles of shells in many place give testimony to this little delicacy of the centuries. Lovely when boiled, often with vinegar and some add a beer. The Belgians love this combination. But you need a fishing licence and so my pippies still remain in the sand.
Friday 17th May, 2019
Swan Lake to Tarragal
Today was my final day on the GSWW for this time. There are still four sections to go and I will come back in June and finish this track. I have walked about 190 kilometres since starting – 75 kms this week. Thanks to Ruth who did the shuttling and enabled me to walk lighter going back to accommodation each night was a real treat for shower, good resting on a comfortable bed and, of course good food.
Today Ruth dropped me off at Swan Lake to walk to Tarragal some 20 kilometres away. I aimed to do it in 6 hours, it took 6.38 hours. A missed sign was costly as it took me up a huge hill unnecessarily when the sign I missed was so obvious. My walking style is self-protection so I am always looking at where my next step will be – this has caused me to miss a few signs over the years.
The track of choice today was inland. There was a coastal option but I figured I had served my time on the beach and my ankle-bones are still suffering. So I took the inland route, which provided variation in terrain and visual experience.
It started in remote farmland where the signs of emus were apparent. It quickly moved along the edge one of the huge pine forest plantation areas, which surround this area. Due to the persistent rainfall pattern the pine plantations provide enormous revenue for local and overseas markets. The track follows the contours of the plantations, which is sometimes down which means there are many ups. I have yet to master the tempo walking style of the Swiss walkers on the Bibbulmun track. I still tend to puff up slopes, where even shortened footsteps are inadequate, and roar down the other side in recovery mode. I was able to keep to my 3 kilometre per hour pace plus a few extra metres in the hour.
The track broke away from the plantations and took me through some swampy ground, which was a good break. Weaving around the bush on the carefully mowed-manicured tracks is easier than the plantation walking and often the place of wildlife. Not today though. I only encountered a few roos, not much bird life and nothing else. Perhaps it was too warm.
The main task was to climb Mt Richmond (224 metres). While the Mount was relatively easy in comparison to other climbs it still had its steady demand. The track is well designed as it takes you around the mount in a steady climb rather than a direct ascent in one direction over the top. On occasion there were more swampy sections and in some places the track became a boardwalk, protecting the environment from heavy, damaging footfall. The north side of the climb was sandy and dryish.
I reached the top and rested in a beautiful treed area with well-provisioned picnic tables and toilets. A side trip of 3kms offered a sea view but I had to press on to meet Ruth. So I began my anticipated descent. Not only did the speed increase but also the beauty. This side of the mount was on the rainy side and so the plumage increased in density and beauty and the track was firm and feathered in lovely soft leaves. I roared down the mount and caught up some of the time lost on the climb.
Ultimately the floor level is reached and the terrain begins to sand up and undulate. It slowed the pace a bit but by not the excitement of concluding provided extra energy. I wove my way around several old fire tracks and finally drew near to the conclusion.
By now Ruth and I were negotiating a meeting point and eventually the fire track threw me out on a known main road with Ruth not far away. I quickly disrobed my very sweaty walking shirts, took of the gaiters and the boots with great relief. Enjoyed the clear, cool water in the car and let Ruth begin the drive back to the luxury of a shower. Not before the nourishment of a delicious hot coffee and celebratory, small snot block.
This adventure has been a good challenge of distance and difficulty. The relentless plod along sand or pathways with challenging lengths has been dealt with giving confidence, The next set of challenges will not have the distance but will have creek beds to be manoeuvred and higher peaks to be climbed while carrying weight, particularly water .
Thank you for following these meanderings this week. I hope they have been interesting.
A response from Pip on Pippies (how appropriate!!!)
Pippies in the Coromandel in NZ – harvested into a small bucket. Left overnight in salt water to open and spit out their sand. Then boiled with a fresh citrus dressing! Yum. P
Tuesday 25th June, 2019
Tarragal to The Springs Camp – 12 kms.
It was a real struggle to get the want going again this morning. But the alarm was relentless. So at 5 am I got up. Fortunately I had done most of the preparation over the last few days and so everything was packed and ready to go just a few inclusions at the last moment: some food from the refrigerator and medication from the cabinet. My daughter Margaret drove us to the station with my pack and I got the train into the city and linked up with the train to Warrnambool at about 730am. It is a four-hour journey to Warrnambool and then about another hour and a half to Portland by bus.
The train gave a good chance to catnap along the way as we passed through many of the little towns of the south-west. Thankfully the rain has gone along with the cool weather. It looks like a couple of good clear days for walking. The temperature is in the mid teens much like it was recently on the first week of the Larapinta Trail out of Alice Springs. There has been plentiful rain. this is obvious as we now pass many paddocks lush with green winter grass for the animals.
The good news this morning was that Justin had arrived in Iceland by sailing boat after his journey from northern Scotland with his friends the fishermen. We look forward to seeing the vision, which he filmed in that journey with his friends across the North Atlantic.
I will arrive in Portland about 1 o’clock and will then get a taxi out 20 kms to the start of the walk this afternoon. I will need to walk 12 km to the next campsite which will take me about four hours so there’s going to be a little bit of walking in the dark tonight. Head torch is ready.
After arriving in Portland I caught a taxi to the side where I had concluded my walk with Ruth a few weeks ago. We found the spot to start today’s walk just off the Airport road. My taxi driver left me and I readjusted my pack put it on and then I was off. The first part of the walk was magnificent in contrast to the Larapinta which was full of rocks. I was walking on soft leaves and green grass, it was a gentle beautiful experience.
The first part of my walk took me uphill and down dale across stIles built by the organisers so that we could cross fences into farmers properties and then walk across those properties on the fence line and then exit either by another style or by gate. It was 5 kms of pleasant walking in beautiful countryside on a clear warm day what else could you ask? Then I came to a series of small lakes across which was a pathway that I took. This lead me back onto the track in sandhills close to the sea. Up and down again but nevertheless a pleasant experience. I came across a group of students from Wesley College in Glen Waverley who were having an outdoor experience. I discussed what they were doing with one of the leaders and then they left me behind as they pressed on to their campsite. I got walking and was immediately elevated up onto a cliff top. The path took me the next 4 km walking along the edge of a rugged shore line which fronts onto either the Southern Ocean or the edge of Bass strait.
A reminder there of a wrecked ship from the 1850s for this coast was powerful. as the sun began to set I witnessed a beautiful display of red and golden and then as the sun gave us it’s terminal display for the day a magnificent wonderful experience to stand on that cliff line and see the sun set. I came to the turn off on the sign that said The Springs Camp was near and I arrived while it was still daylight. I was still able to get a few things done before having to put on the head torch. I’m alone again this campsite as I have been in every campsite on this walk and I look forward to company.
Wednesday 26th June, 2019
The Springs Camp to Trewella – 15 kms.
Well last night I was tucked away in the little camp called Springs so called because it’s close to a geological phenomena whereby the water seeps out of the rocks near the sea. Freshwater and it’s a spring which cattle used to drink when they were short of water in hot summers. Got away at 8 o’clock had a bit of a sleep in this morning and began with a very sore ankle which is the heritage from walking on the beach sand for 40 km a month or so ago. They’re still very sore – I managed on the Larapinta with them and they have managed to slow me down a bit until the Panadol kicks in.
It was a beautiful journey today along the cliff-tops overlooking the Southern Ocean. must be a delight when the whales are close to the coast in their breeding seasons and gives the locals to chance to see something really special. The coast is magnificent, rugged Cliff line the beautiful blue ocean and the backdrop of course of the wind turbines blowing out their power probably for the local refinery. The walk is fairly easy and a few minor bumps along the way. There were blowholes to see without any blowing going on and a petrified forest which is part of the coastline. Eventually I worked my way up to the top of the curve which then leads into Bridgewater bay. At the tip of the curve the fur seals have taken residence because of the ample food that is there and it was interesting to see these giants basking in the sun. A little later when I came close to near a jetty the seal pups have taken up residence probably for safety sake. After leaving the cliff line you sweep around into Bridgewater Bay beautiful magnificent set of beaches and shorelines really incredible. The little town of Cape Bridgewater gave me a chance to have a little bit of afternoon tea and then move on to find where I was staying the night. That wasn’t as easy as I thought it was going to be a simple walk but it took quite a while longer. Beautiful mown roller coaster track but it went on and on. On my watch it was not 15 km from Springs but was actually 17. I arrived here about 4:15 a little bit later than I thought I would.
Alone again. I set up my tent and gear for the night and lit the fire. I was very close to several farmhouses. Their dogs reminded me of that. And not far from the road that runs between Cape Bridgewater and Portland.
A good sleep followed and readiness for the next day ensued
Thursday 27th June, 2019
Trewella to New Mallee – 14.8 kms.
Today my journey was to take me from Trewella Campsite to Mallee Campsite just past the Cape Nelson Lighthouse. It was about 15 kms in length and was full of variation.
The morning started early at 7.45am and the track wound through some carefully mown up and down tracks in the Sandhills.. I then began an ascent up the side of the cliff face. This mount is populated by many wind turbines as it catches the strong breezes of the Southern Ocean. There was also a grove of mallee quite dense but not high but obscuring light for other plants. Apparently the Nelson area is the only place in Victoria that they grow. Tonight I am nestled in another grove and hence the name of the camp – Mallee.
The CinemaScope views were incredible. Looking at the rich blues, the broad sweep of the beaches and waters gave me some picture where I had travelled yesterday. Beauty of the blue water in the white sea shore the beauty of the in the rugged little islands and coastline really gave an incredible picture of nature and its best. I felt quite impressed with my own efforts in covering their territory in a day.
I pressed on this afternoon to the Lighthouse at Cape Nelson it was an interesting experience to see it but it was the void of any personal touch as those managing the actual edifice were not present and neither was there a cafe open which was even sadder for me. So I pressed on to find my Campsite wondering how long it was going to take after my effort yesterday. And yet it came very quickly.
So here I am at Mallee Campsite it’s probably one of the better ones that I’ve been to so far well laid out with sleeping pads and also a neat little shelter, the toilet but no fireplace but everything else is there and it feels really comfortable and orderly and organised.
Tonight I am preparing for an early start in the morning so that I can make my best effort to finishing this in one go it’s 22 km so it’s a long way and I’m not sure I’m will be able to do it. I have I have to catch a bus at 4 o’clock in the afternoon so time is going to be under real constraints. If it does not work out I’ll just pull the pin and get a taxi for the remaining part in order to catch the bus.
Let me just say something about the animal life on this particular trip. There hasn’t been a lot but what I have seen this been quite remarkable firstly on Tuesday afternoon huge kangaroo, a big eastern grey roundabout in front of me he was massive he must’ve been at least 7 foot tall in the old scale very broad and he was just a big animal. Then yesterday to see the seals just enjoying the sunshine on the rocks, they were a lot bigger than I thought they would be. I then moved on and saw their pups close to the jetty near the town.
I did enjoy a milkshake in the bottle of Pepsi Cola at Cape Bridgewater Kiosk and would’ve had more. But it was a long task in finding Trewella Camp afterwards. I was a little annoyed about that because the distances on the maps are sometimes in-accurate and I put walkers under pressure and I’m not the only one who has complained about that. I guess you now have a little bit of competition between watch and map distance.
So one day to go thank you for your interest and all the responses that some of you have been able to make I appreciate that.
Friday 28th June, 2019
New Mallee to Portland – 14.8 kms.
Finally made it back to Portland today at about 2.30pm . Quite an effort considering it was a 21 kms walk. The terrain was considerate. I came down the hill from Cape Nelson on a good track then it broke up into various soil types and included a few ups and downs.
I woke at 4am for necessities and thought “What’s the point of going back to sleep.” So I packed up and was off in two hours leaving my small possum to find crumbs which i might have left. For 90 minutes my head torch sufficed given the good track but I was still glad to turn off at sunrise proper.
The sea continued to be the dominant motif breaking out into spectacular bays and relief and they characterised the beauty with their colour and shape.
The Enchanted Forest provided a relief of pristine beauty in their gnarled and twisted forms within the gloomy interior of their dwellings. They went on for quite a while.
Yellow Rock was the prominent surfing beach with waves rolling in on a wide front and giving good carriage to the brave.
I slept among the wind turbines last night with their incessant noise and varying grinding and swishing. The farms are quite prominent along the cliff line no doubt providing power for the Alcoa Refinery and others.
Skirting round the refinery gave time to think about necessary activities in life. Particularly when crossing their effluent outfall flowing into the sea at a strong and steady rate.
The walk from the refinery took several hours with and up and down ending to challenge walkers near the finish. Finally arrived at the Information Centre and had the customary photo taken in front of the Great South West Walk sign.
This has been a gentle track by comparison with other ventures particularly the Larapinta. At Lunch I lay on a bed of soft pine needles and while the surface was sometimes blue metal or the never ending limestone, nevertheless the track had mainly gentle rises and often soft walking surfaces
So there it is. Time to sit back and ponder where it goes from here.
Walking has been an unexpected part of our lives since 2016 but incredible rewarding in terms of enjoyment and fitness.
The bus went all the way to Melbourne. I was home in good time that night.
Incomplete Trails, Meaningful Communities. 