Goldfields Track

Wednesday 2nd of May, 2018

I have been looking at walking the Goldfields Track for a little while now.  It gives the possibility for a short jaunt up through the Central Highlands of Victoria. 

The track runs from just south of Ballarat – at Mt Bunninyong through to Bendigo Railway Station. It is a distance of 210 kilometres and is a composition of three tracks:  The Wallaby Track, the Dry Diggings Track and the Leanganook Tracks. The Track rises to the peak of the Great Dividing Range just outside Ballarat and follows the trails of the prospectors in the Gold Rush of the 1850’s and after. The Track passes through the towns of Bunninyong, Ballarat, Creswick, Daylesford and Castlemaine. 

Along the way Gold topped posts are plated with directional arrows and trail plaques. 

My journey started on Wednesday the 2nd of May, 2018 after a train trip from Melbourne and a taxi ride to the top of Mt Bunninyong. My taxi driver was well versed in local history and gave me a good interpretation on our way.  At the top of the Mount there were the lookouts, dysfunctional toilets and a fire lookout, which operates during the summer.

The track starts with a quick zig-zag trail down the hill and took about ten minutes. The interpretative snakes information came a little late for those bitten coming down the zig-zag but it was a helpful reminder for the rest of us. The track then wound its way through thinly vegetated Australian Bush for the 5.3 kilometres into Bunninyong.  A neat little lookout a little way out of town provided a good end for a short walk from the local court house.

Bunninyong is a bustling little hamlet with the usual take-aways and coffee shops and the Foodworks supermarket. I munched away on my new lunch.  Home made grainy croutons and olive oil. My Dietician thinks this is a good brew. Washed down with a half strength Latte. Bunninyong is the home of the Australian Cycling road races, held annually around the hills of the district.

After lunch I started my 5 kilometre ascent into Ballarat. Not on a bush track but on a sealed bike track which wound its way through some bushland but mainly alongside the main road. I passed the Federation University, many homes but  little wildlife. Finally I peaked at Mount Clear, which is surrounded by schools.  I was marshalled across several intersections by a Lollypop lady and man as my arrival coincided with the end of the school day.

Then I took a left bearing and swept down into a valley where the Yarrowee Creek flows. This has been cultivated as a walking and running area and the track weaves its way into and through this part of Ballarat in bushland and creek vegetation. 

This is the area of banks of gold where the gold rush tried to surface the alluvial stuff in the 1850’s. Deep underground lay the richer veins which were exploited until expended. Today a mine operates deeper underground and workers drive down the tunnels in trucks and continue to find mining lucrative. At 4pm each day the gold releasing charges are fired but they are so deep underground that they do not rattle any cups and plates on the surface.

Onward I pressed with my new Scarpa leather boots which were starting to weigh me down. Finally I stopped and changed into my camp shoes and thought it time to surface from the river-bank back into civilisation.  I paused on the side of a road as the peak hour traffic whizzed by and phoned for a taxi. When I got to the motel my Suunto watch said that I had walked 20.3 kilometres in 5.24 hours. Average speed 3.8 kilometres per hour.

I stayed at the Eureka Motel and ate at a nearby Indian Restaurant and slept well despite hand cramps from oedema which happens when my hands constantly hang down.

Thursday 3rd of May, 2018
Ballarat to Creswick

It is 25.5 kilometres from Ballarat to Creswick across the Great Divide. I woke early and was away by 7.15am. A coolish morning greeted me but I soon found my way to the track.

The Wallaby Track, as this part is called,  is made up of the following:

• Mt Bunninyong walk – 13.2 kms
• Whitehorse Walk – 6.9 kms
• Creswick Miners Walk – 25.5 kms
• Spence Walk to Mollongghip – 22.6 kms
• Anderson Tramway Walk – 7.2 kms
• Wombat Forest Walk through to Daylesord – 18.6 kms

Once through the Freeway Underpass you are in the bush. The well-paved track disappears and you are on narrow, rutted, uncared for tracks. A steady climb brought me up to the gold rush affected bush with its denuded vegetation and well-worn track from diggers and walkers boots. Past the little Nuggety Dam and continuing to climb the Divide curve to the top. Finally you reach the White Swan Dam, which sits on top of the Great Dividing Range. The Dam receives water from other Dams and is used for  storage, passing it on for supply. The track is rutted from vehicles that plough it up after rain.  A motorbike roars past with rider in flash rigout and disguised face suggesting he is training for something special. The walking track is shared with mountain bikers but none have appeared as yet. A road from outside the area ends in a car park. Five cars are present, probably walkers out for the day.

The track eventually breaks out into a clearing.  Old Methodists from years ago once formed a hamlet here, even establishing a Wesleyan Chapel. Only a camp fireplace exists now.  Two fruit trees on the edge of the clearing suggest some Cornish probably brought their mining skills find their fortune, which they probably did – growing vegetables.

I skirt around a razorback pathway with a trench on one side and a deep ravine on the other until it breaks back to level ground and takes you down to several camping area around near a dry creek. The first camp is informal with a large tarpaulin tent sheltering possessions. The other tent is smaller but seems to be laced up for protection.  A Parks Ranger rolls up in his Hilux and tells me the tents belong  to fossickers out with their gold detectors.  The wind is getting up and the Ranger warns me to get out of the forest fast. He is wary that I might get buried by a tree.  I press on to the next campsite which includes a double loo and a pagoda.  The sign says “go left” the map says, “go right”. So I ignore both and head into town via the access road to these campsites. I follow my iMap on my phone which takes me to the fringe and then to the centre of town. My feet are killing me in these new boots but I am determined that today I will walk the whole way in them. I arrive at the Railway Station at 3pm.  The train is due at 3.21pm. My Suunto navigation watch tells me  I have covered 22 kilometres in 7.51 hours.  Keeping to my 3 kph average which seems the norm for me. 

The train shuttles me into Ballarat some twenty minutes away. I wait for two hours for the train to Melbourne. At 8.30pm I am at Southern Cross station in the City.  At 9.30pm I am back home with a bag of ice for my feet and my hand.  My hand winces and responds better to a heat pack and a little bit of steroid.

I will be back on Sunday to walk to Mollongghip and on to Korweinguboora well known places in the Central Highlands and then on to Daylesford on the Monday.  Two days at a time, utilising public transport will hopefully get me to Bendigo soon.

Sunday 6th May, 2018
Creswick to Mollongghip – 22.6 kms

Sunday morning Ruth and I were up and on the way at 6 o’clock ready to get back on the track. Sadly the hot water system at the Mercure Hotel Ballarat was not working so I was going to be stinking for two days. 

We manage to get out to Creswick fairly quickly and unload the pack.  I got it on my back and then Ruth and I parted ways with her going back to Melbourne. The track was fairly even at the start and was a walking and bike track again. The track passed through Koala Park, which was an inventive idea of some students some years ago. They thought they could contain koalas within a certain area. The fence is all that remain as koalas quickly absconded over the fences. 

Initially we were in untouched bush but after passing the memorial to WG Spence who was a former Labor politician who originally lived in the bush with his family. 

I then came to the more developed farmland. This was to be on the right and left of the roadside for the rest of the journey. The walking was on made roads either dirt or sealed from about 12 o’clock through till about three. I was walking beside well-established farmland.  Farmers were picking potatoes or occasionally green crops were growing in early stages as they’ve only just received the first rains for the season. I had my croutons and oil for lunch under a big pine tree beside the main road. Cherry tomatoes and strawberries added to the flavor. By 2 o’clock my feet were really weary and I was looking forward to the end after another steep climb.  I found myself coming into the small hamlet of Mollingghip, a place and its name new to me. I finally found the hall where I was to stay for tonight the night and began to unpack my things having my usual cup of soup and getting ready for dinner. Time passed very quickly. I had a visit from one of the supervisors of the hall who took my $10 which is the cost for me staying here the night and we had a chat about his walking adventures and family and so forth. By 7pm  I was ready for bed, my legs worn out and I was very tired.  I slept for an hour and a half and now I am awake. Hopefully more sleep will come.  Tomorrow I walk to Daylesford about 25 ks away. I have allowed ten hours for the trip.

Monday 7 of May, 2018
Mollingghip to Daylesford – 25.8 kilometres.

Where and what is Mollongghip?

Mollongghip is a rural village immediately west of the Wombat State Forest. It is 18 km southwest of Daylesford and slightly less southeast of Creswick. The undulating landscape of Mollongghip has good agricultural soil. Settlers named it Happy Valley, and the school (1885) had that name for two years before 'Mollongghip' was adopted. The meaning of the name is uncertain.
A public hall was built in the 1890s and by 1912 the village also had a post office, a store and an Anglican church, which had been built at Musk Creek (1860s) and transported there in 1912. The school closed, probably during the 1970s.
Mollongghip is a mixed farming district, and potatoes are grown under spray irrigation. Its census populations have been around 120-200 people.

Mollongghip, I noted, is about 640 metres above sea level and is surrounded by dormant volcanoes, resulting in the good potato soil. It also is a cooler space, often snowed on in winter…and windy.

I slept fitfully until 5am and finally rose at 6am.  My decision to sleep in the hall turned out to be wise as the wind had come up during the night and was quite strong. 

My getting ready took over an hour and I was away by 7.20am.  I had to ensure that I left the hall in good shape, as they were a little sceptical that I might not conform to insurance requirements and burn the place down.  

I had a 26 ks + walk, as the Hall was a little way off the track.  After passing a few barking dogs along McPhans Road I finally found the Goldfields track as it wound its way up toe Korweingguboora – which many of you would have visited in a previous lifetime?? The wind was still howling and very strong and there were a lot of branches, some large across the track from the blow we had last week. It was also very cold and I was wearing a jumper and a wind jacket to keep out the wind away.  

I pressed on up the track until I crossed Pinchgut Road and had to make a decision. Remember Ranger Danger whom I had met back before Creswick and his advice not to walk on trails on high wind days….I decided to walk on the wider roads just to keep safe. I remembered that old saying: “If a tree falls in the forest and lands on you…do you know about it?”  So despite Ruth’s protests about abandoning the track I walked a distance on the unsealed roads of the central highlands.  I missed the historic Mullens Dam and Wombat Station where great Gold discoveries were made in the 1850’s but at least my noggin was intact.

It did give me a chance to find the little hamlet called Barkstead and see some of the rural living of people who like such a lifestyle. Close to the bush and with a degree of isolation.  Gravel roads leading into the hamlet then a little stretch of bitumen in the community.  No shops, no school, not public toilet.  I found myself playing the duelling banjos theme in my mind!

So on I go, up the road. A kind gentleman stopped and offered me a lift, I said no telling him, “I need he exercise!” He said, “So do I!” Given what was to happen later I am sorry I did not let him cart me up to the T intersection. it would have saved my legs and given me some time.  It could have given me a Latte later. So much for being noble.

The wind had now dropped and I rejoined the track on Sailors Creek Road.  I did and was delighted to discover that it was at the beginning of a 5 kms downhill to the Sailors Creek. On the way a couple, Peter and Anne, who were also doing the track, a bit younger and speedier, joined me. They were also lightly loaded sleeping in B&B’s not carrying food or tent or mattress or sleeping bag or stove – some people make life difficult for themselves! But they were patient with me on the descent and we were able to share experience about this track and others. They too had done parts of the Bibbulmun so the sharing was a bit intense for a while.  At the bottom of the descent they took off, as they had to catch the 3.20pm bus from Daylesford to Creswick to pick up their car.

The walk down the hill was very enjoyable as the wind had died and the sun warming. The beautiful Australian rugged bush had nice tones of autumn with crusty leaves and dry ground foliage. No animal life but occasionally the birds reminded you that they were there, if unseen.

Peter and Anne had stopped for lunch but quickly overtook me as we began our treacherous descent a vertical fall down a narrow ridge to a swamp dominated by exotic cape broom weed with scattered bits of large old gums –as the normally reliable guide book told us.  And it was. We clambered down in a precarious manner to the exotic cape broom weed to be met by a set of steps up but no sign direction. Peter, then clambered to the top and came back convinced that that was not the track. And, without signage direction we took a punt to go along the creek. The guidebook was not clear and it was not until Peter came walking back towards me to tell that he had found a directional arrow and we were on the right track.  There are times when, even with the best of intentions, those who plan to direct walkers do not quite get it right!!!

I quickly lost sight of Peter and Anne as they raced for their bus.  

I had dreams of arriving in Daylesford at about 3.30pm in time to go to that Café by Lake Daylesford, sip my Latte and munch away on a Vanilla Slice, a muffin or whatever. Plenty of time before my bus to Woodend at 5.20pm. For there was only six kilometres to go.

I read the guidebook :

After crossing Sailors Creek on footbridges, the track begins a relentless climb uphill along 4WD tracks.  You can catch your breath after a short steep pitch, when you come to a sign for the Lost Children’s Walk.  Lost in the forest in July 1867 far from their home in Daylesford, three small 4-6 year old boys were eventually found huddled together in a hollow tree, dead from exposure. You will have plenty of time to contemplate he grim fate of the three lost little boys as you trudge on a winding road up Sailors Hill.

This memorial walk for three little boys went on for five kilometres on what the guidebook called a roller coaster ride.  Trees surrounded me: messmate stringy bark, flaky peppermint, white trunked candle bark but did not notice the vegetation very much. My eyes were on this never ending track, my mind was on my tired sore feet carrying those new heavy duty heavy boots, my aching shoulders under the burden of the backpack. And my heart was sad at the ever diminishing yet feelingly increasing distance to Daylesford.  

My coffee hopes passed at three thirty as anxiety about the bus increased. Down one gully means up the other side and just when you thought this steep climb was the steep climb out…you hit another one.  My mind was not on the three little boys but another old coot they would find curled up in a tree trunk!!!

Finally I heard the roar and swish of passing vehicles and then emerged onto the Old Ballarat Road.  Now the pressure was on as it was after four and despite only being 1.7 kilometres to the Lake coffee shop I then had to climb up from the Lake into Daylesford to catch the bus.  My 8-hour journey had taken nearly 10.

Weaving around the creek was ended by another climb up the Lake’s retaining wall and then a sprint to the Coffee Shop – CLOSED. It was now 4.40 and another ascent up the hill to Daylesford town.  The stent held out and I got to the CFA Bus stop at 5.10pm. Quickly yanked out dry clothes and stuffed the wet ones in the bag. With the permission of the driver I changed my boots for my camps shoes and loaded the pack into the bus storage. As I was the only passenger I changed by shirt and put on my wind jacket and lay back to enjoy the journey over to Woodend for the Bendigo to Melbourne train line.  

The driver was curious about my journey and when I told him about the roller coaster his response was: “I love it!” Turns out he is a competitive dirt biker and loves to ride the hills and dips for training. “Wonderful track around here!” he said; I struggled to agree with him.  

I have realised, that the ends of walking days for me are places of pain where I am quite grumpy and disagreeable until I take off my boots and have a packet soup!  Not a nice person to be around.

We picked up another passenger along the way who helped me carry my bag onto the platform.  He then offered to give me his advice on the 5/2 fasting diet and improvements in treatment for diabetes.  I thanked him and told him I would probably be asleep in two minutes.

I had a quick trip into Southern Cross, Melbourne on this train then a switch to the Metropolitan line to Glen Waverley. Ruth met me at Mount Waverley and we were soon home.  Through the back gate and I loaded my backpack onto the picnic table.  I will sort it out sometime.

Tuesday 15^th May, 2018
Daylesford to Hepburn – 13 kilometres

The pattern will develop. Metropolitan train into Southern Cross and V-Line train the rest of the way.  Rose early and caught the Bendigo train to Woodend. A transfer to the Daylesford bus retracing my steps back to this iconic town. Spent time buying a hat as I had forgotten my old faithful. Then down to the Information Centre for guidance and a conversation with the volunteers who were amazed that someone would walk so far.

Nibbles and a coffee and then a walk down to Sailors Creek on sealed roads.  Caught up with the track at Tipperary Springs – a mineral water trickle so common around here. The pump churns out water for tourists and table and toilet provide a good picnic setting.

Back on the track gave an opportunity to pass more mineworkings before coming to Bryce’s Flat. This is a riverside picnic area where climatic crossover from the southern wetter side to the northern dryer side affects the vegetation from now on. The bins are overflowing and litter suggests it is a drinking area for locals. 

Pressing on I continue to follow Sailors Creek as it weaves its way north. Sometimes it is easy and sometimes difficult. The path ascends and descends the river bank and at times is almost impassable. A tunnel was created to blast water over soil to expose gold and was named “The Blowhole” and remains as a memory. 

The track takes me up to Main Road which I now follow as I have tired of bush bashing and want to get to my restful B & B. The final part of the journey is over asphault on the streets of Hepburn. It is harder than the soft bush tracks and is a painful conclusion to todays walk.

I arrive at the Guest House which is one of the older retreats of this place. It has bedrooms for guests and common gathering areas for guests at meals or during the evening. I seem to be alone in the house tonight and so retire to my room to watch T.V before an early sleep.

Wednesday May 16, 2018 
Hepburn to Porcupine Ridge Road

Today the task is to traverse from Hepburn across to the Porcupine Ridge Road. It is a conclusion at a road with no surrounding community so I have arranged to be picked up by Fiona one of the owners of Adsum B&B of Glenlyon. She will take me the 8 or 9 kms off track and bring me back the next day.  So kind.  As it turns out it is a classy b&b set in an old farmhouse which once served as the Courthouse and Council Chambers for Glenlyon.

I was awake at six and quickly reorganized my bag, had my porridge and was out of the door about 7.15am. I was hoping to meet my Adsum host at 2pm but actually arrived at 12n so killed some time walking closer to our meeting place and sitting and pondering and making a few phone calls.

My first task was to climb to Jacksons Look-Out  just out of Hepburn. I passed the iconic spa baths and a few other springs before winding my way up to the Lookout. Then off to the Goldfields Track to find it blocked with tape and signs.  A prescribed burn recently had closed the track temporarily. From the map I worked out a diversion First onto the Hepburn backroad and then on the Midlands Highway. Walking into the traffic on the second road was a bit hairy as it was early in the morning with people heading off to work or business. 

Finally I rejoined the track at Sawpit Gully road and continued to enjoy the flat surface, which had been part of my journey on public roads. And Sawpit Road was to lead me directly to my concluding point.  At the intersection there was the collection  of letter boxes at the entrance to the road. This is a burgeoning community of boutique businesses concentrating on accommodation, small food products, and lifestyle experiences. A counter cultural community.

Sawpit Gully Road was a neatly graded road which eventually broke into a four-wheel track which was not as convenient. The flat regularity with the occasional rise and fall was in contrast to the roller coaster on Sailors Creek yesterday. Achieving short-term goals became a way of progressing and interesting. Sawpits were workplaces to cut up logs for supporting underground gold mines.  There were also water sluicing places eeking out supplies for miners on this dry side of the Great Divide. 

The last part took me up a rise to a good viewpoint of the surrounding area. The elevation was a little taxing but I made good progress on the bush track and was surrounded by scrubby bush-land and occasional tall trees. Occasional paddocks reminded me farmland was near but not as intense as on the lower land. 

One is amazed at this track as it offers a record of a strip of land, over 200 kilometres long, which excited the world with its long stream of gold. And to think that miners walked up and down this track in search of their fortune. I wonder how they survived. I carry three and a half litres of water, which I get by turning on a tap at my B&B. They would have to scavenge from dwindling creeks or farmers’ supplies. And what was that water like at the height of summer. Food is around if you know where to look but I have seen only one kangaroo.  I would not know what to look for in terms of bush tucker so I am dependent on what I carry in my pack.

Today I began to work through what is called “Dry Diggings” because, although some entrepreneurs found ways of sluicing water, generally, gold had to be sourced in these area without the streams I had passed through in the earlier parts of this journey.

So today I finished early giving time for rest in preparation for a longer day tomorrow. I am wandering, eventually towards Castlemaine on this section. I  hope to reach Fryerstown tomorrow where Ruth will pick me up. On Friday I will walk the final bit from Fryerstown into Castlemaine.

Today I met a cyclist who was using the Track to ride through to Castlemaine. I also met two people who were doing a reconnaissance for the Geelong Walking group. So it is very much on my own but that gives time for self pacing and much contemplation.

I was met by Fiona Buchman and her daughter from Adsum B and B.

Adsum Farmhouse: Growing, picking, preserving and hosting – Weekly Times…August 2, 2017 12:00am

Fiona and Edward Benedict run an Organic Market Garden in Glenlyon as well as the B and B.

Alas too late for a coffee at the Glenlyon General Store but this was offset by the generous provision in the B&B.  I was left alone to make coffee and devour a fresh loaf of bread with butter and jams with some left over for breakfast. I cooked a meal from my pack and settled back in luxury to enjoy my rest in front of a big T.V.  The shower was magic, it ended one day and started the next.

Thursday May 17th, 2018
Porcupine Ridge to Fryerstown

Awake at six with the help of the alarm with the eternal unanswered question, “Why am I doing this?” Here I am in this wonderful comfy bed in a beautiful B&B with breakfast laid on and many other pleasantries and yet there are the boots. Another day on the track takes some mobilisation of thought and will but finally it comes.  The tasks of getting ready are so routine now that I am showered, dressed and fed and temptation, today I can go back to bed. 

At 8.30am I am to be taken back up the hill by Fiona and her two little girls on their way to school. As the kilometres roll by I am glad I did not have to walk back up to the track. After the creek the access road  gets a bit rough for their little van. I wave them off and begin the first of a few uphill slogs for today. I would walk the 2 kms back up the road to connect with the track after the girls dropped me at Middleton Creek. 

Finally I arrive at the track as it crosses Porcupine Ridge Road.

I have been doing some work with a sports Psychologist. I have found that I hit the wall in some of these walks. It seems the destination had become more important than the journey which makes walking extremely tedious. The goal, now is to “chunk it down”  so I reduce each day into meaningful sections and try to enjoy the trip. So it is 2.4 ks (about 50 minutes of walking) to Browns Gully ruins with their old stonework built by the diggers who were demonstrating a permanence in this gold fossicking business. Then on another .8 of a km to some more ruins. Then 1.4 ks to Wewak track and so the day is broken down into little bits and the end goal, though still far away is not so ominous. At Sebastopol Gully we recall how there was a riot between Italian and Irish miners over jumped claims. Similar fights occurred around the country, I remember the great siege at Kalgoorlie as ethnic differences spilt over into violence.

This chunking it down seems to be working as previously I was forever resting, even sleeping on the track to avoid the journey. 

Along the way the country is generous in its flatness, then come demanding climbs often on a path rutted by heavy rain and rocks that fall onto the path. Large mullock heaps appear as do old dam-sites now with only the banks to show of purposes long ago.

I cross the Wewak Track and the Helge Track and then emerge into the old Tubal Cain mine. This was an extensive mining operation including a dam, deep shafts and residential housing indicating the seriousness of the finds.

The track then winds up a steep hill until it divides one for Walkers and the other for Cyclists. Both link up when we reach Vaughan Springs a pleasant picnic and camping area on the Loddon River. Then there is a steep climb up to the Vaughan-Chewton sealed road. As I struggle up a dirt track I am passed by two later aged cyclist. One comes along side me and we chat as he sets his gear on the lowest possible. They will reach Castlemaine tonight and Bendigo tomorrow. As he goes he says, “Enjoy”. It is late in the day, my boots are heavy and I do not have pedal power. “Enjoy” struggles to find correlation.

On the way to Fryerstown we pass the Chokem Flat camping site, old brewery sites with some fragments of that past. The end is near as I trundle through the bush with this hamlet of Fryerstown emerging. No commercial ventures in this place but several churches, a hall and an old empty school now set aside for community purposes. I ring Ruth and she joins me in 15 minutes by car. We check out where tomorrow’s walk starts and then head back to Castlemaine for a night at the b&b, dinner at the Railway Hotel and a good nights sleep.

Have to be up early tomorrow to go back to Fryerstown to walk the 14 ks back to Castlemaine.

Overnight I did some thinking and research and below is some of what I found.

Along the track there are at least two remaining elements of water diversion. Both are associated with Mr Hunt (no first name has appeared so far). Mr Hunts ingenuity is recorded in the Heritage Inventory History of Site it records:

Hunt’s water race appears to have been built in two sections. In 1860, Mr Wilson constructed a race, which brought water from Wollowbee Creek (now Wallaby Creek) across the elevated plains to Shepherds Flat. This race was some 15 miles long and supplied water for the Dry Diggings goldfield. Mr Wilson also had a battery, which was located on Middleton’s Creek, which presumably was water-powered. Wilson’s race was purchased, in 1861, for the sum of £115, by the Prince Llewellyn Co – Specimen Parker Reef, Dry Diggings – for water for their crushing plant and dam. The race also appears to have been referred to as the Kangaroo Creek race: e.g., in 1884, the race was supplying water for 15 sluice-heads for sluicing gullies in the Dry Diggings area, and also, for powering a water-wheel battery on Sportsman’s Reef. Wilson’s race was later extended by Mr Hunt to Middletons Creek where the water was used to sluice various gullies.

Today I passed two significant dams from that era, probably used for sluicing. I find that the track lies at the heart of Victoria’s gold history. To think that this reef and its surrounds stretched over two hundred kilometres. Rich pickings at the time!!

Friday 18th May, 2018
Goldfields Track

Woke early at the expertly decorated B&B and enjoyed a continental breakfast in contrast to the porridge and powdered milk. Got dressed and ready and Ruth guided me in the car towards Fryerstown. Today I only have to carry a day pack which will make the walk easier and hopefully quicker. 

Fryerstown’s 15,000 population of gold rush days has now dwindled to a  much smaller number of people. The remaining buildings reflected some of the past affluence. Some buildings were made in classic red brick from nearby clay fields. 

No one stirred as we drove to the town and then out to its northern edge. Ruth dropped me in a laneway and then made her way back to Castlemaine some 15 minutes away. 

We were greeted by some early morning roos munching on autumn grass but that was the end of wildlife for the day. I climbed over the stile, which was the entry to the Goldfields Track.  Then up the hill on a four-wheel track and then over that hill, around a bend, and then a descent to a creek. Which means an ascent on the other side but it was taking me towards Castlemaine 14 kms from Fryerstown.  

Shortly afterwards I came across the remains of the Spring Gully mines which operated from 1850 to the 1930s.  The gold supply nourished these areas for quite a while. Remnants of their working are tumbling down but enough remains to give hints of how the business processed the gold. Then off and over the hill past the mullock heaps; residue of what had been extracted from the mine and gleaned for gold. More working were found on the track amazing recollections of what must have filled the coffers of many people.

The track then offered a new experience as it circled below the summit of a hill called The Monk. A rounded hill named for some reason circled half way to the top and then took me west towards Castlemaine.  Then I encountered the Poverty Gully Water Race, which was a conduit bringing water from the ranges down to the mine workings. This was a massive undertaking of digging and clearing ending in a small storage dam half way down the hill. The track followed on the banks of mullock beside the Race.  Apparently this was one of a number of Races in the area. After about 2.5 kilometres the Race brought me out near the edge of Castlemaine.  Given my lift to the edge of Fryerstown and my conclusion at the fringe of Castlemaine I had walked 11 kilometres on this varying track formation.

Ruth met me with Jenny, her distant cousin, and together with Alan, Jenny’s partner we went off to a Spanish restaurant to finish this leg of the walk in style.

We are now back home in Melbourne.

I have now walked from Bunninyong to Castlemaine – 154 kilometres.

The first section from Bunninyong to Daylesford – 94 kilometres 

– The Wombat Track

The second section from Daylesford to Castlemaine was -60 kilometres 

-The Dry Diggings Track.

The third section from Castlemaine to Bendigo remains – 60 kilometres 

– The Lederberg Track.

26th May 2018
Patch Highway to Castlemaine

Today was to be an important one off, linking the Calder Highway with Castlemaine and so allowing me to plan how to finish walking up the Calder Highway to Bendigo.

The Lederberg Trail comprises:

• The Summit Walk up Mt Alexander – 12kms
• The Coliban Water Walk – 20.5kms
• The Goldfields Walk – 12kms

So far it has been a varied experience of walking in town and out, in – out and up gullies and creeks, over hills and down to the bottom again; the varied countryside of Central Victoria. Now with 170 kms behind the little challenge will then be to find the three days to walk into Bendigo.

Today I used the train again, which has provided a useful link to get me to the start of each new walk. V-Line as they call it here in Victoria is an excellent service running to the regional centres on a regular basis. Coupled with generous discounts for Seniors it makes the journeys quite accessible in many ways.

I was up and off with Ruth to the Mt Waverley station in time for the 6.32am into Southern Cross. A croissant seemed a useful addition to the Wheatbix and I took up my reserved seat on the train. The efficient conductor was telling us the good news about our journey and also warning us not to change seats or all manner of evil would follow.

I got to Castlemaine at 9.20am and was straight into a taxi, which got me out to a 10am start near the Calder Highway.  Today I would be walking backwards into Castlemaine in order to go forward at a later date. Walking back into Castlemaine was to ensure that at least my transport knew where to take me to start or finish and it would fulfill righteousness whichever way I went.

The day was to be spent on roller coaster tracks until I got to the creek-side ramble into Castlemaine. In the early morning the trundling was done on a downhill, Specimen Gully Road, firstly through typical Aussie eucalypts on a spiral road beside a dry creek. Then a deviation into a luxuriant pine forest with well spaced trees and the lovely aroma of pine needles. Classically labeled “Golden Point” one looked down at times to see the pot holed creek banks, a reminder of who had been there before many years ago digging for gold. We broke out of the pine forest and into farmlet territory with absent owners away building their wealth in daily occupations. Dogs would bark, even from a distance as I approached but I saw none. A huge grey kangaroo bounded across the track and I searched in vain for its mate or its young. Down past Expedition Pass Reservoir, one of the many reserves of water in the area and on to Welsh Street – a village named after a group of Welsh miners who once populated the area. Then over the rolling hills and down toward the iconic Garfield water wheel. The support structure still remains in stone, the huge wheel long gone. It was fed water and the turning created enough capacity to crush the ore from nearby mines. The track now took me close to Chewton which is the last settlement before Bendigo.

As I lunched at the Water Wheel I noticed a big ute full of equipment and as I walked on I found a husband and wife prospecting team. He was about to  test the area with his scanner.  They were part timers for, although they had garnered quite a bit of gold, it was insufficient to make it a full time occupation.

The track was now winding down to the flats of Castlemaine and I found a good clear dirt track and followed it through a final piece of forest and onto this long creekside walk which took me into Castlemaine. It was littered with rest seats on a regular basis.  This was good for at the end of a days walk as the boots are really heavy and a little painful to lift. Slowly I worked my way around this walk and edged closer towards town. Skimming the outskirts I finally hit bitumen and then footpaths which is a sure sign that I was back in civilization. I looked down the street and saw the Railway Station which had been my goal for today. My Suunto told me I had done the 12.9 ks in 4 hours 26 minutes which was a bit speedier than usual. I dosed my dry tongue on an Icypole and downed my diet Coke. The train duly arrived, time for me to change some of my sweaty tops. The train was surprisingly crowded and by the time it reached Melbourne there were a few standing as seats had run out. Into Southern Cross and onto the Glen Waverley peak hour train. Played a few games on my iPhone which killed some time.  Ruth was on the other side of the station to take me home to a well prepared meals of salmon, beans and a lovely cauliflower sauced side dish.

Time now to plan the final assault up 44kms of the Calder Highway to Bendigo.

19th June, 2018
Calder Highway to Harcourt Road – 12 kilometres.

The day began early at 5.45am as preparation was needed before catching the

6.44am train from Mt Waverley into the city to catch the 7.41am VLine train to Castlemaine. All went well and Ruth drove me up to the station before moving on to her weekly class of Pilates.

On arrival at Southern Cross I was informed that the train had been cancelled and was to be replaced by a bus service.  I quickly covered the ground to the bus station and threw my pack in the underneath storage bay.  I was immediately asked to withdraw it as the bus was full. The next bus was several hours off and I dreaded the consequence of a later start.  Then the V-Line person in charge took me and another guy heading for Riddels Creek to the taxi stand.  He gave the driver a Cab Charge docket and sent me and the other guy off no charge for us to our destination – $250 fare.

Amused and bewildered I did enjoy the trip and was subsequently dropped at the Castlemaine station. Then there was another taxi ride out to the Calder highway.  I used the tunnel under the road to access the track on my way to my destination. It was my goal to get to Harcourt Road then walk another 4 kilometres to take some time off tomorrow. But the terrain had other ideas! The western side of Mt Alexander was to prove difficult with rocks on the trail and many ups and downs as we circled the eventual summit in order to access the top. The view from the top of Mt Alexander was terrific and I wound my way around the two huge television transmission towers.

The eastern side was the opposite. A smooth descent with zig-zags taking us quickly to the bottom.

The plus for today was some beautiful scenery as recent rain has produced a green cover and the varied trees refreshed my experience of nature.  On some of the higher lookouts the vista before me was an incredible panorama of Australian diversity and beauty. Unique rock forms quizzed imagination, I am not that skilled in seeing dogs in rocks. I met a rock climber equipped with a fall mattress as he was climbing some challenging rocks alone.

On the way I was greeted by huge Eastern Grey Kangaroos who moved off as I got close. The Sulphur Crested Cockatoos made a noisy fuss and the colorful parrots flew quickly to quieter destinations.

The buzz of a chain saw and the movement of farm equipment on the lower slopes added to the difference. Time passed slowly and ultimately my goal of additional walking disappeared and I was able to get Ruthon the phone. She redirected her pickup to a new location. I got to the road first and saw her coming in the White Subaru.  I waved my red jacket to catch her attention but she drove past thinking a nutter was rending his clothes. She then realized who I was and turned around to meet me.

We quickly found our B and B for the next two nights: The Chocolate Lily. A spacious two bedroom stay, well equipped well provisioned setting which we shall enjoy. 

So tomorrow I will see how we go.  I am now walking beside the goldfields supply from early days, the Coliban Channel. This promises to be less undulating and flatter tomorrow. It is 20 kilometres to the next point but I think I will shorten that and make the final day longer as it will be partially on streets and I will be able to wear lighter footwear.

The exercise today was painful but helpful in the long run.  About 40 kilometres to go to get to Bendigo.

20th June, 2018
Sutton Grange to Hunts Gap Road

Recovery time after yesterdays walk included booking into a good B and B, the Chocolate Lily at Sutton Grange. It was warm and comfortable and with a great drenching hot shower. Panadol eased some pain but a good nights sleep was better.

Woke early and prepared to leave by eight but it was closer to nine when I hit the track.

After yesterdays walk where I covered 12.0 kilometres in 5.5 hours; today I would walk 17.1 kilometres in 5.15 hours. The difference was the terrain. Today I walked beside the Coliban Channel on a service road, mainly flat, which was quite a pleasant change. 

It was good to walk in the chilly morning air, rugged up with jumper and wind jacket, gloves and beanie. But the lack of wind meant that the sun warmed me up early in the day and it was possible to get rid of the jumper and jacket. Fortunate to have clear blue skies after all the rain last week. Tomorrow promises to be the same.

The grass is green now and the kangaroos were out in force. At one stage I thought rocks were moving in the distance only to realize it was the Roos on the move. Their grey colour helps them to blend in with the surroundings. The sulphur-crested cockatoos were screeching again and we clobbered one in the car on the way home from Bendigo tonight. A kitten rabbit also bounded near our car in the dark as we went off the local pub for dinner. The bunny, dazzled by our lights ran forward then backwards under the car. So it has been a bit of an animal killing day.

The walk was kind most of the way apart from two occasions when the channel disappeared into a tunnel in two hills. Blasted out by miners in the 1800s the channel re-emerges on the other side of the hill, which you have to climb to continue the track. There were also two waterfalls built into the construction.

The Channel brought water to Castlemaine in 1874 and to Bendigo in 1877. The original earth based channel was covered in concrete in the 1930s. The water quenched thirst and help to drive gold refining machinery processes.

The track eventually led me to the Bendigo Park Campsite and a water tank for walkers before I came to Hunts Gap Road, my finishing point for the day. Ruth was waiting on this back road having mastered Google Maps on the iPad.  A brilliant job. 

So, one day to go.  Back to Hunts Gap Road tomorrow and then a six hour walk into Bendigo. That will complete this epic journey.  It has been great fun and a journey of great enjoyment and learning. The guide-book provided by the Goldfields Track organization has been brilliant. It provides accurate information and well resourced maps including topography and historical information.

20th June, 2018
Hunts Gap Road to Bendigo Railway Station

Today I got started at 10.30am after Ruth dropped me back at Hunts Gap Road. The journey into Bendigo covered 15.6 kilometres, which took in 5.15 hours at a speed of about 5kph. It finished at Bendigo Railway Station as I sang along with the Proclaimers: “I’m gonna be” – with the chorus “But I would walk 500 miles and I would walk 500 more”. Until we can organize a Caledonian Pipe Band for these finishes iTunes will have to do.

The distance allowed for a later start and we were able to sleep until 8am and then enjoy the full breakfast provided by the B & B. It also gave us a chance to say farewell to Virginia and Peter, our hosts. Also a chance to play with a red dog Kelpie named Milo who is quite skilled in retrieving a soccer ball and rolling it back to you.

Ruth’s day was to be spent in Bendigo in the shops and the art gallery. After I arrived we went out to the Bendigo Pottery in time to make a few purchases and view the collectibles.

The track was a concluding combination of many of the forms experienced over the last 11 days. The first few kilometres were spent in finalizing the journey beside the Coliban Channel. As it prepared to enter the Sandhurst Reservoir there was a large steel catchment to apprehend stick and other large object. It also prevents dead animal from flowing into the drinking water. I chatted with a Coliban Water worker whose job it is to maintain the channel. He assesses when water is required to top up the reservoir or provide water for irrigators and farm dams. I sent him off in search of an Angus bull roaming free near the reservoir. 

After the channel road the track worked downhill towards Bendigo. There were a series of descending roller coasters sometimes on smooth paths but much of the time on corrugated tracks with cumbersome rocks, which slowed the journey. Found Diamond Hill and the remnants of old digging were obvious. There were protected shafts and mullock heaps besides watercourses. This was once prime gold bearing country until the alluvial search went underground with greater capital and expertise needed. The land is dotted with beautiful ochre rocks and soil with reefs rising on the pathway – I am told this was a good sign of possible gold.

Eventually the track draws you into the heart of Bendigo firstly through a long nature reserve and then up through Quarry Hill to the fringe of houses. The bush is in the distant and blue “Goldfields Track” street signs replaced the gold-topped Goldfield Track signs. Eventually I was on the final lap and the boots did not feel heavy. Up and over the railway line at the Station for the City Side is the final destination of the track.  Faithful, loyal Ruth was there to greet me and take the customary photo.